It is true (or should be at least, given the quality of the horn).
However, there are a few other factors.
Foreign contaminants can get into the instrument (cheeseburger, sugar,
dust, dirt, hair, and other debris) and adhere to the valve surface.
This often accounts for the scratching sound one hears when they depress
the valves. Also, grease from slides can and will get down into the
valve casings as well. All of this junk that gets in there can impact
the motion of the valves. Using a light lubricant flushes the valves as
well as keeps them slick so things don't stick to them in the first place.
However, the moisture in the horn is often enough to assist this and one
shouldn't need to place mass quantities of oil into their horns on a
regular basis. The *main* reason to oil inside the horn is that the raw
brass (both the valve and the insides of the slides) are very
susceptible to corrosion. Keeping a thin coating of oil on these
surfaces assists in keeping this corrosion away. If your valves are
nickel plated (some are, most aren't), then this is less of a problem.
As a general rule, I place several drops of thin oil in my leadpipe on a
weekly basis. I also use a needle oiler and a thicker oil on the rear
spindle (where the corks and strings are) and a thinner oil in a needle
oiler on the top bearing plates. I also use a thicker oil on all
springs/rods and on spit valve assemblies. For slides, I like both Fast
Cat (or is it Fat Cat?? I can't remember - it's purple and thick and
works great) and Hetman. Only rarely do I find myself placing a little
light rotor oil down into the valves themselves.
I can honestly say, I've *never* had a problem with any of my valves
with the exception of a polycarbonate valve that gummed up on me all the
time with the introduction of any oil whatsoever. Nor have I ever had
any problems with my slides. If I did ever have a slide that was too
polished, it wasn't hard to put a light scratch finish on them to better
hold the slide grease in place.
Cheers-
Jeremy
whitacreh...@aol.com wrote:
Is?it really true that the rotor surfaces do not touch the sides of the valve
casing, so it in not necessary to oil inside the valve?
message: 8
date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 12:55:49 -0500
from: "Luke Zyla" <lz...@suddenlink.net>
subject: Re: [Hornlist] Slide Grease and valve oil
?
Check out the wikipedia entry on lanolin:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanolin
?
I find the lanolin combines with the condensation inside the horn and creates
an emulsion that make the horn gurgle and is difficult to remove without
cleaning the horn with a good solvent (soap) and brush.
?
About oiling the valves.
There are only two bearings on rotor valves.? The rotor surfaces do not touch
the sides of the valve casing, so it in not necessary to oil inside the valve.?
Adding oil inside the valve only creates a mess that must be cleaned out or
diluted by adding more and more oil.? Start by removing the valves and clean
them well.? Oil only the bearings upon reassembly.? Your valves will work
quickly and need only very occasional oiling on the top and bottom bearings.?
Heed Hans' advice and stop over oiling your valves.
?
CORdially,
Luke Zyla
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