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Subject: [mobilize-globally] Democratic Korea moves forward


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         [pttp] Democratic Korea moves forward
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         Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:20:37 +0100
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New Worker special feature - 17/8/2001.

Democratic Korea moves forward

 A New Communist Party Study Tour of the
Democratic Peoples' Republic of
Korea, took place last month. The delegation was
headed by National Chair
Alex Kempshall and included Central Committee
members Ray Jones and Daphne
Liddle, and included Yvonne Wilkin.

 During their stay they travelled extensively
throughout the country and
held talks with Korean communists. DAPHNE LIDDLE
writes about her
impressions of life in socialist Korea today.
Further reports will follow.

OUR FIRST view of the Democratic Republic of
Korea, as our Air Koryo flight
descended at Pyongyang airport, was of a very
lush, green countryside with
crops growing in every possible scrap of land in
and around the airport.

 We had come at the beginning of the rainy season
and this year the rains
have not disappointed. So long as they don't
become too heavy and cause
flooding, all bodes well for the DPRK on the food
front this year.

  We were met at the airport by comrades from the
Workers' Party of Korea,
presented with flowers and then driven to our
hotel in the centre of
Pyongyang.

  Our Korean comrades had worked out a heavy
schedule of visits and
sightseeing for us, there was so much they were
proud of and wanted us to
see and so little time.

  Our first visit was to the Kumsusan Memorial
Palace -- a Mausoleum for
the great leader comrade Kim Il Sung -- to pay our
respects to one of the
giants of communism, a man who led the people in a
war of liberation from
Japanese occupation which was won in 1945 and then
defended that victory
against invasion by the United States and its
allies, using the fledgling
United Nations as a puppet.

 He then went on to lead his country in building
its own, independent
socialism, steering a careful path during the
period of Sino-Soviet
ideological conflict and managing to remain on
good terms with both parties.

  And after the demise of the Soviet Union and the
loss of the eastern
European socialist countries, an enormous setback
for communism globally,
when parties were becoming demoralised and failing
around the world, Kim Il
Sung stopped the rot by summoning a global
conference of communist and
workers parties in Pyongyang in 1993.

 At the end of the conference the parties,
including the NCP, signed the
Pyongyang Agreement and went back to their homes
with renewed determination
to fight on and confidence in the justice of the
socialist cause. Since
then, many other parties have also added their
signatures to the agreement.

  After that we visited dozens of museums,
memorials and splendid public
buildings, as well as a school, the metro, a
maternity hospital, a circus
theatre, a farm, a school for party cadres, the
Grand People's Study House
and the Schoolchildren's Palace.

  Most of these buildings involve a lot of
highly-polished marble which
provided coolness and shade in the hot, humid
weather. Just about the only
exception to this was the party cadre school,
which is constructed of the
usual building materials.

 From the top of the Juche Tower, a monument to
the Korean socialist
philosophy of independence and self-reliance, we
could see the whole
panorama of the city of Pyongyang below us.

 There are very few old buildings. The city was
totally levelled at the end
of the 1951-53 war against the US invaders and had
to be rebuilt fast --
thousands were homeless. Many Soviet-style blocks
of flats were erected
quickly. Korean weather has not treated them
kindly (frozen winters and hot
summers with very heavy rain) and those that
remain are not looking as good
as they once did.

  A large rebuilding campaign was embarked on in
the 70s to replace them
with better quality flats and that process is
still continuing today, with
large areas to the north and west of the city
earmarked for expansion.

  But there are no slums of the kind that would be
expected in most other
Asian countries and there are certainlv no
homeless people on the streets.

  One of the most striking elements of a view of
the whole city is the vast
amount of space given over to parks and gardens,
many alongside the river
Taedong and the wide streets. Many of the main
routes are bordered by
grassy strips with flowers. These are constantly
being tended and weeded.
We were told that housewives often do this
voluntarily and so do groups of
children during school holidays.

 There is no litter, graffiti or vandalism. The
people of Pyongyang are
proud of their city.

 There are very few cars on the wide roads of
Pyongyang but plenty of
pedestrians and cyclists. The climate is not kind
to road surfaces so
driving takes a special kind of concentration.

 There are plenty of buses and trams in town,
usually packed. These
services are in the process of being improved. We
also saw many work groups
and school outings groups (our visit coincided
with the last few days of
term) travelling in the backs of high-wheeled
lorries.

  The noise of what traffic there was, was
constantly drowned by the sound
of the cicadas in the parks and streetside trees.

  There is also a magnificent underground railway
system in the capital
with palatial, marble halls and chandeliers
designed to resemble a static
firework display. The light fittings of Pyongyang
are worth a visit in
their own right, with thousands of coloured
dangling glass prisms arranged
in floral patterns.

  The rush-hour in Pyongyang does not really get
going before seven in the
morning. Then hundreds of workers are walking and
cycling about, waiting
for buses and trains. We were told most work an
eight-hour day beginning at
eight, nine or ten according to the job and a
48-hour week. Shift and
round-the-clock working happens when it is
necessary as in healthcare,
power or production work.

  We saw no over or under weight people. The only
uniform aspect to the
appearance of Pyongyang people is that they all
look formidably fit and
healthy. They do an awful lot of walking compared
to Londoners. And in
recent years natural disasters have caused food
shortages that have led to
rationing.

 The United Nations relief agency praised the way
in which the DPRK
administered its food aid so that it reached all
who needed it fairly.

 The clothes worn by the people were mostly light
cottons -- nothing else
was bearable in the heat and humidity -- in as
varied colours and styles as
you would find in any western high street, though
a significant minority of
women still choose to wear the gorgeous national
costume. It was hard to
believe this is technically a Third World country.

 A visit to Kim Il Sung's birthplace at
Mangyongdae, just outside
Pyongyang, showed us an example of a poor Korean
peasant home of a style
that has prevailed for centuries. It contains
original farming and cooking
implements.

 Friday July 27 coincided with commemorations and
celebrations of the
defeat of the Americans in the 1951-53 war and was
a national holiday. We
visited the huge Monument to the Victorious
Fatherland Liberation War and
delegation leader Alex Kempshall laid flowers of
behalf of the NCP shortly
after big ceremonies involving veterans and
currently serving members of
the armed forces and their families.

  The DPRK now operates an "army first" policy. In
a capitalist country
this would be alarming but in the DPRK the army is
so closely integrated
with the people that it could not be used against
them. There is no
conscription -- army service is entirely voluntary
-- but most young people
see it as their responsibility to the safety of
their country to put in
some service, ranging from six months to several
years. Those who wish to
make it a career can go to a military academy and
become officers.

 The army does not merely defend the country. It
is involved, giving a lead
in all major civil construction work and wherever
hard work is needed in
farming.

 Soldiers, young men and women, are very visible
everywhere, building flats
and roads. They played the major role in
constructing the giant West Sea
Barrage, a major undertaking that closed a wide
river mouth allowing vast
acres of salt marsh to be drained for arable use
and creating a big fresh
water lake for fishing, with locks through the
barrage for shipping and
channels for natural fish migration. The army has
also pioneered fish
farming in the DPRK.

 Those who leave the army remain on the reserve
list and take part in
occasional retraining. One way and another, most
of the population are
involved with the army and are ready to take up
arms if need be to defend
their country.

 The Koreans are a generous, friendly people with
no hostility to anyone.
They boast that in 6,000 years ofhistory they have
never so much as thrown
a stone at any other nation. But they are aware
that US imperialism has
described their country as a "rogue nation" and
would dearly like to impose
the will of the global markets to enslave them.

 The Koreans say that if the Americans approach
them in peace and
friendship they will be happy to respond likewise.
But if they make a hard,
hostile approach, the Koreans will meet them with
three times the hardness
in response.

 One of our trips was to the Pueblo, a US spy ship
captured in Korean
waters in the early 60s and now a tourist
attraction.

 On the afternoon of 27 July we visited the
Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery
on a hill just outside the city with magnificent
views. Again, Alex laid
flowers on behalf of the NCP.

  In the evening we were taken to Kim Il Sung
Square for a massive open-air
dance and pushed into the melee. Our hands were
taken immediately by young
Koreans and, as gestures overcame the language
barrier, we were taught
traditional Korean dancing. A number of other
foreign visitors were also
impressed into the dance including a young African
family who were plainly
enjoying themselves enormously.

 The dance finished early by our standards at just
past nine but we were
assured that young Korean girls and boys seem to
take an awfully long time
to wander home in each other's company.

 The Grand People's Study House is a huge building
with a traditional style
pagoda-type roof, dominating the square. It is not
merely a vast national
library with access to books from all around the
world -- and, of course,
the internet -- it also runs open lecture courses
with recorded tapes
available for those who miss a lecture.

  And it has a unique feature. It has a large
academic staff who are at the
bidding of the people of Korea. Anyone who has any
query on any subject
whatever can make all appointment with a leading
academic specialist to
have their question answered and explained. This
is a free service.

  The Schoolchildrens Palace is another remarkable
institution. It provides
free after-school tuition in any hobby children
may want to take up: music,
singing, dance, acting, photography, computing,
swimming and so on.

 We were treated to a full professional variety of
song, dance and comedy
performances that would be hard to match in
London's West End.

 The school we saw was an elite one with entrance
by selection at three
different ages. It concentrated heavily on
sciences, engineering and
computing. The DPRK is determined to turn out
enough well qualified young
people to meet whatever challenges face the
country. Other schools are
being brought up to the same level. Boys and girls
are treated absolutely
equally and class size is limited to 24.

 The maternity hospital has won a Unicef award
giving them maximum points
as a "baby-friendly" hospital -- an award that
puts many a Western hospital
into the shade. Pregnant women are monitored not
only for weight, blood
pressure and signs of diabetes but also for liver
and kidney function -- as
well as the usual scanning.

 Visitors to new mums have to communicate via
closed-circuit TV links and
the walls are tiled rather than the sort of pastel
shades we expect in
western hospitals.

 But the new mums are two to a room, with babies'
cots at the ends of the
beds. They have en-suite facilities and
televisions in the rooms. air
conditioning and the usual nurse-call buttons.
There are plenty of nurses
everywhere.

  We had three trips outside the capital. One was
to the West Sea Barrage.
Another was to Mount Myohyang, a mountain resort
where we stayed overnight
in a large hotel in the midst of the most
spectacular scenery imaginable.
The view from our balconies was jawdropping.

  Heavy rain curtailed our mountain climbing to
just one day, walking along
well-kept paths (we saw several people at work
maintaining them), across
bridges over a tumbling mountain river up a valley
that got steeper and
steeper as we went higher. Near the top we came
across a small Buddhist
temple. We asked if there was any conflict between
the state and religion
in the DPRK and were told no, religion is regarded
as a cultural matter and
nothing to do with politics.

  Close to the mountain hotel was a large, ancient
Buddhist temple, now
carefully maintained by the state containing many
ancient treasures
including a building filled with ancient Buddhist
printed texts, some of
the oldest printed works the world.

 Unfortunately, many historic treasures were lost
during the Japanese
occupation as the Japanese tried to destroy all
evidence of the
6,000-year-old unbroken civilisation and culture
of Korea.

 Also near the mountain hotel is the International
Friendship Exhibition --
a display of all the gifts given to Presidents Kim
Il Sung and now Kim Jong
Il by foreign governments, world leaders, parties
and businesses. Most
countries exchange such gifts on a diplomatic
basis but the DPRK is the
only country where they are put on display for the
public.

 The rain absolutely tipped down on our trip to
the border with the
American occupied south Korea at Panmunjom,
turning steep hill and
mountainsides into waterfalls, washing debris onto
the road surface and
reducing visibility.

 But it did stop for half an hour or so for us to
see the de-militarised
zone and peer across the border at tourists in
south Korea who were peering
back. Also peering back were many south Korean
soldiers in very US-style
uniforms and plenty of cameras. The Americans
themselves kept out of sight.

 We were allowed into a small hut with a
negotiating table in the middle
which is the only place that the two Koreas can
meet legally. The two sides
must take it in turns to allow visitors in.
Ordinary people from the north
and south are not allowed to meet, even in this
hut.

 We went in with a group from Pyongyang and sat
around the table with them,
pretending to be negotiators. Nobody wanted to be
the imperialists.

 As we did so, armed south Korean soldiers peered
in at the windows
menacingly. We were rather glad we had been
assigned two DPRK soldiers to
protect us.

 We were also shown the hut where the armistice
was signed in 1953. The
Americans had wanted the signing to be in the open
air so there would be no
historic building afterwards to mark their
military humiliation. But the
Koreans put the shed up overnight in any case.

 They pointed out to us that the armistice was
signed between the DPRK and
the Americans, not the south Koreans, so the
reunification of the country
has to be negotiated with the Americans. The south
Koreans have no
sovereignty over their own country at the moment.

 In Pyongyang, the Three Revolutions Exhibition
displayed the products of
north Korean industry, the power stations existing
and yet to be built.
There is certainly plenty of scope for
hydro-electric schemes. The country
has great mineral wealth, with coal, iron, copper,
magnesium, lead, gold
and silver. No wonder world capitalism wants to
get its hands on these
treasures.

 Food production is rising though the country is
not yet fully independent
in this respect, it is well on the way. A system
of double cropping is now
in operation with both wheat and rice grown to
harvest in the same fields
each year.

 Orchards and vegetable patches often double up
with beans growing among
the fruit trees and other vegetables. The bean
plants, as well as providing
extra food, fix nitrogen in the soil, adding to
its fertility. Every
possible inch of the land is cultivated but much
of the land is too rocky
and mountainous for anything but sheep and goats.
Korean cattle are large
and sandy-coloured and do a lot of work.

 Extra food is now coming from fish farming and
potato crops.

 But the DPRK's greatest resource is its people.
Socialism and the
leadership of Kim Il Sung and his successor Kim
Jong Il have given the
country a staggeringly high level of social
cohesion and commitment. The
people have humour and intelligence without
cynicism, egotism or selfishness.

 Their country has made amazing strides in
improving living standards and
built magnificent roads and cities without
borrowing on global financial
markets or putting itself in thrall to the world's
bankers. That is what
capitalism cannot forgive.

  This has been possible because the Workers'
Party of Korea concentrates
not only on economic advancement but also on
ideological advancement. The
people have every reason to be proud of what they
have created and they
know it.



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