Scotchweld is a pretty good room temperature cure structural adhesive...I
call it out a lot in repairs.  If you use that I would recommend proseal
along the fillets.
On Oct 27, 2013 9:10 PM, <melder at mbfab.com> wrote:

> I think you should stick to rivets.  There is a bit of a learning curve in
> the magical molten joinery of aluminum - be it running a bead with a TIG
> welder, or spot welding?  I?m guessing since you didn?t know you could do
> it, you don?t have much experience with it.
>
>
> Not a knock on the creativity, but it?s probably better to stick with
> rivets and pro-seal (proven, and easy to manage).  If you still want to
> learn the ?magical arts?, so be it, but do it on something that isn?t going
> to aggravate you when it leaks.
>
>
> Err, and not to start a war, but there are people that say that pro-seal
> is a pain to use and is messy.  I contend that it?s no worse than epoxy in
> general and if you can wipe your nose without getting it all over your
> hand, you will do fine with pro-seal or it?s counterparts. ?
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Craig Williams
> Sent: ?Sunday?, ?October? ?27?, ?2013 ?20?:?20
> To: KRNet
>
>
>
>
>
> So I'm sitting around dreaming of flying my plane someday and
> contemplating my stub wing tanks.  The outer wing tanks are welded
> aluminum and that was fine but a bit pricey.  My mains are .032 aluminum
> sheet and I got to thinking how hard it was going to be to weld such thin
> sheet.  Poking around the internet I found that in fact you can spot weld
> thin aluminum sheet (see video) and as luck would have it I have a new
> 220V spot welder sitting on the shelf.  My plan is to use this technique
> to spot weld my tanks together and seal the seams with Pro-Seal.  Anyone
> heard of spot welding fuel tanks or aircraft skins?
>
>
> http://youtu.be/gcgC3V3mkcw
>
> Craig
> www.kr2seafury.com
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