Every couple of months I crawl under the KR and wipe down the belly, it's 
coated with whatever that 100 LL leaves behind, I'm sure if mine was in 
primer and ready for paint it would take mucho time to get it ready.

Ken Wiltrout
Kutztown,Pa



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "R. Eason Sr." <r...@jrl-engineering.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 11:15 AM
Subject: RE: KR> primer


>I don't intend to be negative to this idea but I have had a fare amount of 
>experience painting cars and driving them in prime is a bad idea. It 
>requires much more work when it come time for color. Cleaning the surfaces, 
>repairing damaged spots and de-oiling the surface if you can.  Some times 
>it requires sealing the old paint with primer-sealer[more weight] and still 
>you can have fish-eyes. If the oil gets under the prime and into the 
>fiberglass it's another problem. Extra time mybe 300% more. Painting 
>fiberglass is not like painting metal.
> The risk factor is very high that you will run into large problems.
> When guys came into our body shop and wanted prime only so they could 
> dirve the custom car we made for them our responce was 'pay us now or pay 
> us alot more later'.
>
>
> Ronald R. Eason Sr.[KRron]
> Pres. & CEO, KCMO Office
> J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd.
> 816-468-4091, Kansas City, MO.
> Web Page: www.jrl-engineering.com
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Mark Jones" <mjo...@muellersales.com>
> Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> Date:  Wed, 8 Mar 2006 09:45:32 -0600
>
> Bobby,
> This is the other Mark chiming in here. I too primed my plane with
> MarHyde Ultimate 2K as Langford did so I could fly and paint later. The
> only difference is that Langford actually painted the bottom of his
> plane red prior to his flying, I did not. I will testify that after 70
> flight hours, the 2K primer did absorb some oil but it was only on the
> top layer. Once I had cleaned the surface real good, I then sanded the
> primer to remove the absorbed oil. This was time consuming as the gummy
> oil primer would clog the sand paper. Once I got below that top skin of
> oil impregnated primer all was ok.
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI
> Visit my web site: http://www.flykr2s.com
> Email: mailto:flyk...@wi.rr.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
> Behalf Of bo...@hatconversions.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:56 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> primer
>
>
> Mark, Has it been pretty oil proof so far?
>
>
>
>
> Bobby wrote:
>>
>>> What are you using as a primer
>>> on your bird that is oil resistant? Like I said, I don't want to do
> any
>>> paint work until I'm sure I'm finished with the chain saw.
>>
>> Mine is  a urethane primer called "Ultimate2K" from MarHyde, sold at
> most
>> auto paint stores.
>>
>> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
>> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
>> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
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>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________
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> _______________________________________
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> Sent via the WebMail system at jrl-engineering.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>
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