I know that this is a little off the subject of gluing oillite bearings in but 
feel that this product should be mentioned to anyone that is considering using 
lubricated plain bushings. There is a product called Garlock DU series bearings 
and what they are are spring steel jackets that have a lead impregnated teflon 
coating on the inside that are good for 5000 hrs. moderate use and as the 
coating gets worn from one surface tranfers to the other surface maintaining 
lubrication and are inexpensive and are pushed into the hole and the outer 
jacket has a split line in it and is designed to spring load itself in the 
hole. I used them on my KR1 for most of my working parts and they don't need to 
be lubricated. The steel jacket is thin and for a 3/16" ID. hole the OD is only 
1/4" and come in various sizes and lengths. My 2 cents worth  Chris Johnston 
<chr...@ozdocs.net.au> wrote:  Loctite 609 is the stuff to use, it is 
supposedly specially formulated 
for oily bearings such as sintered bronze bushes, it replaces loctite 603 
which had a limited shelf life, and, I think its other problem was it tended 
to be hygroscopic.609 is very well suited for press fits and works so I have 
found out by disseminating itself into the grain of the material and 
augmenting the press fit. It is classed as medium to high strength, maximum 
gap fill is .2 millimetres, maximum temperature is 150 degrees C, and sets 
in about 30 minutes. It is advisable to have a radiused edge on the leading 
edge of the bush other wise when the bush is inserted it tends to scrape the 
loctite from the joint, and cures in a confined space by the absence of air, 
not recommended for use in oxygen rich environments, and costs about $10 
dollars for 10 millilitres. Loctite 620 will also do the job just as well. 
The other thing I learn't was just listen to what the kr net sais and use 
rod end bearings, ( well, bushed hinges should have worked out reasonably 
cheaper, but in practice, its not working out that way ).



Chris Johnston

North Richmond NSW

Australia



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott William" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: KR> using loctite


> Loctite isn't designed to "bond" parts together beyond
> .007 of a gap between those parts. (I think the 660
> will will go to .020) Loctite 640 bearing retainer is
> what i always used on taper shafts, and I find it
> strong enough to eliminate the reliance on the
> retainig keys on those shafts. It is used as a filler.
> It goes in and remains where there is any kind of
> clearance. It dries in the gap, and has enourmous
> sheer strength, but no bond strength.
>
> Do not use it to hold parts together. Use it on
> press-fits to make the fit stronger.
>
> --- Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>> I need to fit some sintered bronze bushing into
>> aluminium plate, the parts are a good interference
>> fit but I thought some loctite would not go astray
>> either. Any information I have found so far on the
>> on the web suggests that you coat the parts with
>> loctite and then press fit together, but I would
>> think this would scrape any adhesive from the joint
>> and there would be no bond, unless tehy are relying
>> on the loctite soaking into the bush and bonding
>> that way. Loctite 603 I think is the one to use as
>> it is specially formulated for oily surfaces. The
>> only other option I can think of is to make the bush
>> slightly thinner than the plate and fill around the
>> edges with loctite.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Chris Johnston
>>
>>
>> North Richmond NSW
>>
>>
>> Australia.
>> _______________________________________
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>
>
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