John, However you cut into the old tanks and stick them back together, make sure there are no pockets left to gather water other than at the quick drain. You may want to change the dimensions of the tanks to limit fore and aft movement of the fuel so you don't get CG changes with pitch changes. Perhaps the vinyl fence post fuel tanks may be an option to consider. Capacitive senders, one in one post on left and right side, will work. I think Larry Flesner used the capacitive senders in his KR. Definitely use Vinyl Ester resin for layups and bonding where fuel will be in contact. If you go with the vinyl fence post fuel tank, be sure to use the vinyl glue made just for that purpose to glue the vinyl pieces together. Do not use the Vinyl Ester resin to glue vinyl pieces together; VE does not bond to well on the vinyl. For drill and tap pipe connections on the fence post, just glue extra thicknesses of flat vinyl pieces to beef up those areas. That way you get enough thickness for sufficient threads and torque-ing the pipe nipple up tight won't crack the otherwise thin post material. Several KR builders have used PVC pipe for fuel tanks. These work but the fuel apparently slowly seeps through pores in the pipe and evaporates on the out side. Using PVC would seem to have fuel fumes constantly in the wing voids; I think that is a safety hazard.
Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA smw...@md.metrocast.net >I was thinking of cutting open the bottom of the wing and taking the tank bottom out. Then laying up 1 or two layers of light glass and vinyl ester resin inside the existing tank top and sides. At the same time replacing the filler necks, caps, vents, etc.... John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, WA
