Morning All

I think Joy hit the 'pin' on the head here... I've been thinking about it (dreaming) and mum used to take minute stitches, 2 rows, gather to the correct size and 'stroke' the fabric to make them all lie the same way. She used to do it with a pin though. You probably can do it with 2 rows of machine stitching one above the other, but it would be very difficult to get the threads in exactly the right place.

Unfortunately Mum is no longer with us, and even if she were, she was suffering with Altzheimers latterly, so wouldn't have remembered anyway. However....

8. If a knot, that cannot be untied, comes in the gathering thread, you will have to begin again.

9. When the seam is finished, remove the needle from the thread, and make a knot in this end of the thread.

10. Put a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch, taking up a few threads of the cloth.

11. Carefully draw up the thread, but not too tightly.

Fig. 29—Showing the thread drawn up, and fastened around a pin.12. Wind the thread over the top, and under the point of the pin a number of times, crossing the threads at the middle of the pin (Fig. 29).

Placing or stroking of gathers—

1. With the right side towards you, begin at the left-hand edge.

Fig. 30—Showing the placing of gathers, with a large blunt needle2. Hold the work between the left thumb and forefinger, as in Fig. 30, keeping the thumb below the gathering thread.

3. Put the point of the large needle under the gathering thread, holding it obliquely.

4. Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the little plait under the thumb, and drawing the needle downwards.

5. Pinch it down tightly.

This was taken from Joy's link (Well Done Joy!!) And that is EXACTLY how she did it!! but using the 2nd row to hold the first in place once gathered!! If it was a wedding dress or christening gown she would make a third row below the seam to ensure the fabric didn't slip, then machine, then take out all erroneous threads!!

Sue
On 30 Jun 2008, at 03:09, Joy Beeson wrote:

On 6/29/08 7:29 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

. . . I am really interested in trying to learn how to make those teeny tiny pleats for gathering that you see in some antique clothing,

Some old books I read waxed quite contemptuous of women so lazy that they didn't "stroke their gathers"; I gather that this was done by putting the eye-end of the needle into each individual pleat and stroking downward to settle it.

Since it helps with machine gathering so much, I suspect that it would help to make *two* rows of your hand gathering stitches. Two points determine a line, so securing the crease at two points would make it more likely to run in the wanted direction. The stitches must, of course, be exactly the same in both rows. It would probably help to mark the fabric first, or practice on gingham or some other fabric with woven-in guide marks.

Or, if you can see the weave, go under two threads and over six, or however many will make the pleats of the desired width. (A stitch must always take up at least two threads of the fabric, as a single thread is likely to break.)

http://vintagesewing.info/index.html probably has a book that explains how stroked gathers are made.

It do!

http://vintagesewing.info/19th/1892-sn/sn-02.html#gather

Note that it says to use the point of the needle to stroke the gathers; other books criticize this practice on the grounds that the sharp point weakens the fabric. (Oops: the material list specifies a *blunt* needle.)

If your fingers cramp, the needle can be mounted in a pin vise.

--
Joy Beeson
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
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