In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Lynn
Weasenforth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
> I can't get the roseground to
>work, can anyone help me.  

I haven't got Doris Southard's book, but in principle you work the top
two corners first, these do not have pins. Then you work the four pin
holes, top, two sides, bottom. Then to finish, the two bottom corners -
again, no pins.

The order of working is thus:

a, b, 1, 2, 3, 4, c, d.  

a 1 b
2   3
c 4 d

where a, b, c and d do not have pins, 1 2 3 and 4 do.

The most frequent roseground I've come across has a cloth and twist at
the corners and half stitch, pin, half stitch for the pinned stitches.
(But you can combine any stitches - eg half stitch at the corners,
Dieppe ground stitch at the pins, or even half stitch at the corners,
then work a half stitch diamond at the pins - there are many
variations.)

If you have a bottom corner that is also top corner to the next square,
you do not do a second corner stitch.

I also find it helpful, as well as marking the diamond (the usual
pattern marking for roseground), to mark in crosses at the corners, as
these show which pin holes in the surrounding area your threads are
coming from and going to - the cross-over is where the pin-less stitch
sits. So it is marked:

+ . +
./ \.
 \ /
+ . +

(I'm sure you can square that up, and extend the lines of the + to reach
the relevant pinholes - it is easier to draw than type!)

Note also that alternate squares are empty, so you do have big gaps
between (my students always ask if that is correct!) - the roseground
squares form a checkerboard effect. Remember that you have two pairs
coming to a pin, and two pairs going out from it - you cannot have two
coming in and three or four going out! (Obvious, but occasionally a trip
up point!). Also, you cannot work roseground and turn a corner on the
same line - you need two lines of roseground, one before the turn and
the other after.


-- 
Jane Partridge


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