Hi everyone I wrote: >>> don't you have to consider openness of pattern, bendability of the raw >>> materials vs. product, that sort of thing?
Tamara responded: >You have to do it with any fibre, even the natural one (never mind the >synthetics). A 2-ply cotton thread will behave differently than a 3-ply >cotton thread, even if they're the same thickness, Indeed - however, fibrous strands (i.e. threads for lace) have consistent behaviors whatever the grist - even the synthetics and metallics, compared to wire, which is solid and inorganic and its properties vary vis-a-vis the very thin wires and the larger gauge (even more than with thread)(if that makes sense) > and you can't just >mindlessly substitute one for the other, and expect it to produce >identical lace; You *can* mindlessly substitute one thread for another in bobbin lace, and expect some sort of textile, because fibrous organic strands ( = threads) behave similarly (that's why we like using them for bobbin lace) but consistently not inorganic solid strands (= wire) for a given thread. e.g. linen 50/4 - find a wire of the same grist, same wraps per cm. For the given lace pattern requiring linen 50/4, not wise to try in wire of the same wraps - in simplest terms the wire will be difficult to work with, being of heavy gauge ... supposing one would even want to use such a wire. It might be more useful, after experiment, to list which size wire is best suited to something based on dots per inch (diagonal). My point is, giving a chart of wire with wraps per cm. alongside threads for lace could be misleading. In the organization of the whole, wire lacemaking is more akin to sculpting or basketry than bobbin lace - primary tools for instance are pliers and cutters, and lace bobbins need to be adapted, or even abandoned (as I did). You don't really need pins if a few extra twists will hold the wire pairs in place. Bulldog clips come in handy. As Tamara pointed out, you do have to do the 'stitch' movements deliberately. Before Lenka astonished us with her beautiful designs, lacemakers were experimenting with wire for lace; we had a discussion 'way back on arachne. I have a kind arachne to thank for mailing me all sorts of wire to try from her place of work -I made a few pieces from them. I had the pattern pinned to styrofoam, but the lace was made in my hands, from the strands folded or twisted to start (these were my own patterns). I placed the work over the pattern from time to time to judge where to place the wires - which were in a jolly state unattached, but didn't get twisted around each other. This worked quite well for small open motifs in half-stitch. Someone at that time advised the piece should be 'pounded' when finished - you only get one chance, place the work on a piece of wood and smack it with a short length of two-by-four (v. satisfying though I decided I didn't like the 'flattened' look after all). That was then, this is now - Lately I appreciate the how-to books written by Dianna Stevens - she offers motifs just with plaits, picots and tallies (leaves) and has a v. helpful introduction, including a nice little pattern or two, here: ( an unabashed commercial) http://members.aol.com/Lacemania/wireintroduction.htm I like seeing wire laces, - but I prefer the kinder, gentler method of making bobbin lace with thread ;-) -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
