On Jan 28, 2007, at 22:22, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Orla) wrote:

Yep, it came from Le Pompe (pattern B on page 17).

That's Le Pompe Book I, BTW, for those who have the Levey/Payne version of Le Pompe that Jeri wrote about. While Levey/Payne reproduced all the woodcuts from book I and only "selected pages" from Book II, there's page 17 reproduced from both books, and both have more than one pattern on that page.

It looks like it's about 20 pairs of bobbins and is made of Kreinik cord
- which has become my favorite thing to use for metallics.  The biggest
pain for it is that there are sewings all over the place.  Every
vertical line in the footside requres sewings as does the triple loop
at the top.  I use Bayeux bobbins and can't imagine how anyone would do
this pattern if they were using midlands.

Midlands wouldn't have been "in period" anyway; they're post-1600. But I'm troubled by your statement that "there are sewings all over the place". There *shouldn't be any* -- this is a plaited lace, not a tape one. I'm not a member of SCA myself, so I don't know how insistent the Society is on the accuracy and how much leeway is permitted, but plaited laces made before 1600 had few -- *if any* -- sewings; all the joins were achieved by skillful manipulation of the bobbins themselves.

I know there are no instructions for that pattern in the book and, anyway, you make your lace "the old-fashioned way"--interpreting *a pricking* the best you can (that info came in from private e-mail exchange, in case anyone's wondering). But most of those early lacemakers had formal training (the author of the Neuw Modelbuch speaks of having students, for example, though the unknown author of Le Pompe dedicates his work to "virtuous ladies", thus suggesting dilletantes), so their guesses weren't likely to be wild; they were informed. And there was a certain "canon" of techniques on which the lacemakers based their interpretations.

Levey/Payne interpretation of Le Pompe patterns is wonderful, because it began to unlock some of the mysteries of the earliest laces for us. But their interpretation, by necessity, based their conclusions on a different (more modern) set of techniques -- the ones *they* were familiar with. Burkhard's interpretation of the Neuw Modelbuch, though published only 3yrs later, seems to guess at the 500yr-old realities much better.

And the work continues, in several countries.

In US, an Arachnean, Devon Thein, volunteers for the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC. Which not only has a very large collection of lace, but also one of those techno-wonders -- the awesome microscope. One can view laces, stitch-by-stitch, and see how they're constructed, without having to take them apart. And one can capture each bit in a photo, for further study and possible reproduction. Which is more likely to be really accurate, since it draws on more than just the study of the original woodcuts; it considers actual laces made in the same period (if not, necessarily, on the same patterns), gaining insight into the techniques used at the time.

--
Tamara P Duvall                            http://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA     (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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