Ceramic lace is lace that I make with clay. They aren't tiles, maybe
they're sculpture.
Every step of this process has been a new challenge.
I couldn't make the ropes of clay of a consistent enough diameter to
satisfy me until I learned how to use an extruder- think really big cookie
press. But the ropes were too fragile and when I tried to curve them around
where a pin would be, they'd crack. Then I learned about adding paper pulp
to the clay to lessen this. So now I mix my clay at home, adding paper or
sometimes cotton lint while the clay is liquid. Then the clay has to be
dried on plaster slabs and kneaded to give it a uniform texture. It has to
be pliable but not too stiff, soft but not too sticky. I freeze the clay in
blocks to stop the deterioration of the paper. Otherwise, it only keeps for
about a week.
But I was still unhappy about the smoothness of the coils when the weaving
was finished. I still spend a lot of time smoothing the strands out,
brushing with slip and sponges carefully sanding. I usually try to keep
this obsession to the front of the work, only messing with the back if it's
really bad.
Then I was, and still am unsatisfied with how to finish the ends. Should
they taper away? Should they look a little ragged, like the thread has been
broken? or should they look cut? I've tried all three, still not sure which
I like best.
When I work the designs, I can't cross-twist-cross. I go under-over-under.
I start in the middle of the pattern and work out. I can't tension. And of
course, the clay can't be wound on bobbins. The smaller pieces take about
20-30 minutes for the weaving part, the bigger ones, such as the spiders,
take about an hour. I flip them to the back and dab on a little slip to
help hold all the pieces in place. The designs that have mostly straight
lines are more fragile, and sometimes will crack and have to be repaired.
One of the advantages of the paper clay is that it makes this easier. The
works have to be dried slowly, with regular turning to allow them to dry
evenly. The edges have to be weighted to keep them from curling up as they
dry.
The patterns take a long time. I draw them repeatedly, using a lot of
tracing paper (I buy it in rolls now!), trying to get them symmetrical and
the pin holes lined up. Sometimes I have to take artistic liberties. Like
the spiders for example. They have one twist in the legs, because I think
two twists look too crowded. If I enlarge the pattern enough to put 2
twists on the legs, the body looks too insubstantial. When I finally get
the pattern to where I'm satisfied, I'll try it. Sometimes, I start over.
If it works, I transfer the pattern to sheets of craft foam, drawing each
pair in a different color. The size of the pieces is limited to the size of
my kiln, about 23 inches across, and the length of the ropes I use. The
longer they are, the more rough the surface and the more they dry out as I
work, thus they're more likely to break later on.
This is possibly more than you wanted to know. I'll continue to add to the
web pages. My page of links wasn't working, so that's one of the issues I
have to deal with. And the kiln still needs rewiring before I can make any
more. I'm wanting to try fans!
Cherry Knobloch
Chesapeake, Virginia
USA
-
To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line:
unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
