A short flight from Zadar took us to Zagreb, a delighful city with tree-lined
avenues and parks.  It was here that we found the Ethnographic Museum, which
was not only open, but allowed photography with flash.  I had a wonderful time
taking pictures of all the costumes.  The helpful Curator told us where
Pauline could buy Lepoglava lace and where I could find textiles, so the
following day we went in search of our treasures.

This is a very beautiful lace, similar to a Brussels bobbin lace with floral
motifs and scrolls joined by a ground which our booklet described as honeycomb
webbing, but would appear to be like a Valenciennes round-ground with
varations.  I can tell you more after I have visited Pauline and seen the
piece she bought from a craft shop in the city centre.  The lace is superbly
presented in a special folder to keep it in pristine condition.

Although there is a long tradition of lace in Lepoglava, a small town in the
mountain area to the west of Zagreb, is came to the fore in the late 19th
century when a Lace School was established.  Sadly, there was no viable form
of transport to the town which only comes into its own at Festival time, later
in the year.  However, I was lucky to find a traditional costume from the
Zagreb area - a finely pleated white skirt and embroidered blouse top with a
woven and smocked apron which has a fantastic border of embroidered medallions
surounded by crochet in brilliantly coloured threads.  Somehow, I managed to
get it into my small suitcase before we set off on the final stage of our
journey.

Angela

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