>From Jeri
"Remember  what I always recommend - carry a small purse-size torch (British 
term) or  flashlight (American term) when traveling and visiting museums 
and historic  buildings."

Highly recommended if you visit "Imagine" at Waddesdon.   A friend also took 
binoculars. She said the National Trust had no objections to her using an LED 
torch even though flash photography is not allowed.   She got a few funny 
looks, but also looks of envy at her forward planning from people who wanted to 
see the lace better. 

Jacquie in Lincolnshire

-------- Original message --------
>From jeria...@aol.com 
Date: 19/10/2014  00:05  (GMT+00:00) 
To lace@arachne.com 
Cc a...@annbernard.com 
Subject [lace] 2.  Ann Bernard's Blog (Jeri's Comments)  Long 
 
We all need to network more, please!  Here are my  (Jeri's) comments about 
some subjects discussed on this Blog  site:

I really  enjoyed the Nottingham Blog.  (I independently went to see the 
lace  factories after one of Marion Scoular's tours of Scotland).  I  bought 
every little book that was sold there about lace plus the 1994  381-pg. 
hardbound book by Sheila A. Mason called "Nottingham Lace  1760s-1950".  When 
our 
friend who works with laces at The Metropolitan  Museum expressed interest 
in 2003, I mailed my copy of Mason's book to her, and  later put her in 
touch with Mason.  Mason was able to get a private lace  appointment at The 
Metropolitan shortly after, when she was in NYC.   Her family company, Cluny 
Lace Company Limited, is the last of the Leavers lace  makers in the UK, per a 
memo Mason sent to me in 2010.   Her company's  history stretches back to 
1739. 

Word  came in 2003 via Arachne, that Bill Rowe (b. 1921), a member of the  
RAF Association Croydon Branch, became interested in the lace panels  and 
then wrote a 72-pg. spiral-bound book "The Battle of Britain in Lace",  in 
which he accounted for the present location of panels and gave many  
photographic images.  I have this book, thanks to Nicky  Townsend.

Lace  guild bulletins and personal letters have come to me from  
time-to-time, telling of additional locations, as  the lace community tries to 
recapture history.  One letter  from Devon Thein to the New England Lace 
Group 
suggested there is a copy in the  U.S. - in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 
donated in 2007.  She received  this information from Brian Lemin in 
Australia. 
However, the http address  provided failed for me today.  There is at least 
one member  of the New England Lace Group who could confirm this location, 
if she would come  out of lurking.

I was  very happy to read Ann Bernard's review of the Ruhland (Lace) 
Collection  Exhibition in Canada, closing Nov. 2, 2014.   More needs  to 
appear on 
Arachne about it.   Ann tells  me it was fascinating and overwhelming - too 
much to take in on one or even  two or three visits.  Canadian Lacemaker 
Gazette published lovely photos in  the Fall 2014 edition.  This Gazette is 
like a national lace  guild, and links Canadian lace lovers together.  A 
Canadian lace groups  page with contact info is always inserted in it, and all 
Provinces are  represented.  I personally know several members - all of whom 
network about  lace and represent Canadians very well.   Malvary Cole and 
Bev 
Walker, are particularly active participants on  Arachne.

The next  thing I was caught up by was Bernard's memories of being a 
student at the RSN in  the early 1950s.  I can relate to the Prince's Gate 
building, as I  once went there to take an embroidery class.  I also shopped 
there 
for  books whenever in London.  Scoular took me to the newer  headquarters 
at Hampton Court, which should be a destination for all who pursue  any form 
of needlework.

Arachne members may learn more about silk and metal threads  from 
information in Bernard's Blog.

I was reminded the 1st edition  of the 442-pg. 1886 scholarly book, 
"Needlework as Art" by Lady Marian  M Alford, is always fun to delve into.  
It has 
14 pages  exclusively devoted to lace, and from Ovid's Metamorphoses the 
Story of  Arachne (Appendix III).  Somewhere else in my readings I learned  
that Alford lived at Prince's Gate.  Ever after, I have wondered  if she 
lived 
in the very building that later housed the RSN?!  

In a completely unrelated book,  on Royal fans (the kind you hold), is a 
fan that Alford painted.   Apparently, she studied art in Italy at a young 
age.   A very nice  background for an early leader in the development of the 
RSN.  Her  knowledge would certainly elevate the perception that some 
embroideries  are sufficiently well designed and executed that they must be 
considered to  be art.

About Beryl Dean (1911-2001), whose name will always be the  one most 
associated with ecclesiastical embroidery of the 20th  century:  I, too, saw 
all 
the chairs piled up perilously close to the  embroidered panels in Windsor 
Castle's St. George's Chapel that Bernard  describes.  This was on one of 
Scoular's tours.  I have written  publicly about this several times - on 
Arachne.  It is a conservation  issue, because restorations are extremely 
expensive, and the item is never  "original" when other people have worked on 
it.  
It was shocking that  castle authorities permitted TV crews to do this.  We 
must all "speak  up" when we observe such things, and it is encouraging that 
Bernard  reports the matter has been properly addressed by placing the 
panels in a  glass case.  However, there is no lighting!  

Remember  what I always recommend - carry a small purse-size torch (British 
term) or  flashlight (American term) when traveling and visiting museums 
and historic  buildings.  I've used mine often in museums and castles.  
Guards 
will not stop you, if you are discrete.  Don't wave it around and make a  
big issue of it.   It is also wise to follow Bernard's  advice and make 
visiting arrangements in advance if there is something very  special that you 
want to see and study. 

Ecclesiastical embroideries designed by Beryl Dean include lots of  silk 
and gold threads.  There are 5 books by Beryl Dean in my (Jeri's)  library, 
and there are probably more titles to be found.  Last night,  I re-read the 
earliest history of The Embroiderers' Guild of America (which the  manager of 
EGA's office in 2011 - when I was writing Erica Wilson's obituary  - seemed 
to know nothing about).  I just located a copy in my  extensive paper files. 
It was sent to me as founder of the  evening Morris (NJ) Chapter in 1978.  
The local day chapter did not  want an evening group, so this was the first 
exclusively evening chapter of  EGA - for mothers and working women.  I 
bankrolled it, and was  reimbursed a year later.  It is still an active  
chapter.   Sometimes, you just have to make things happen that  have never 
been!

In the  interest of important information not being destroyed (as so much 
history of  women has been) I'm tucking the following into this memo:  In the 
EGA founding document I found references to Beryl Dean's coming  to 
America when EGA was still a branch of the English Embroiderers'  Guild.   
"Miss 
Beryl Dean, an English designer and teacher of note,  under the sponsorship 
of the Special Projects Committee of the Board, made the  first and a most 
successful lecture tour of America in 1962.  She also gave  an illustrated 
lecture in New York, which was well attended."  In 1964, the  Second National 
Exhibit was held in the IBM Galleries, through the courtesy of  Mrs. Thomas 
J. Watson.  (Check IBM's founding history to learn how  prestigious this 
was!)  There were 4 rooms, and the 2nd  room "contained ten entries based on 
a 
floral design donated by Miss  Beryl Dean of London.  These were executed 
with a wide variety of  stitches."  

There is  a new book "Hand Stitch Perspectives" by Alice Kettle and Jane 
McKeating that I  reviewed on Arachne in January.  Chapters are written by 
18  
contemporary embroidery experts.  It includes a Beryl Dean chapter, on  
pgs. 104-115 that is most interesting.  It tells how she often  stitched for 
20 
hours at a stretch.  Another bit suggests her estate  arrangements.  Every 
photo caption includes "The Beryl Dean Archive", and  this is described as 
"primary source material".  Apparently, primary  source material is stored 
somewhere (St. Paul's Cathedral?) just  waiting for a biographer to dig up 
more fascinating information.   Other 19th-20th century needlework experts 
are 
covered in this book:   Louisa Pesel (first president of The Embroiderers' 
Guild in England), Therese de  Dillmont, Rachael Kay-Shuttleworth of 
Gawthorpe Hall, Fanny Palliser (known for  both lace and embroidery expertise 
at the 
V&A).  

Ann  Bernard's Oct. 8, 2012 Blog is about Mary Eirwen Jones and Jacobean 
embroideries  of the 17th century.   Jones wrote "Romance of Lace", which is 
quite  enjoyable to read.  Published by Spring Books, London.  
Unfortunately, 
the book does not bear a publication date or an ISBN.  Her embroidery 
books  are from the 1960s and 1970s.  This comment is because if you have one 
of 
my (Jeri's) "business" cards, it has a lace/crewel design on it from the  
17th century Jacobean period.   It was  deliberately selected for my card 
years ago, because Lace and  Embroidery designs in this period could be used 
for  either!

Hopefully, Arachne members will enjoy these  comments.  They were sent to 
Ann Bernard for pre-approval, and contained  information she did not have.  
That is what this is all about -  sharing.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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