Dear Julie,
 
1.  Catherine Barley, the author of the book you are using, is a  member of 
Arachne.  There are 329 messages from her in the archives under  her name.  
So, wait a bit, and maybe she will weigh in with her  experience.  To 
verify I am correct, type her name in the search box  at:
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.ccom/index.html
 
2.  We have written a lot about threads through the years, and some of  
those memos are in the archives, if you search a variety of ways.  This is  a 
long research process, but I think a search of the following and other memos  
in the "Structure of Threads for Lace" file might help:
_http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/msg35959.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg35959.html) 
 
3.  One thing not mentioned in quite this way, so in  my words - thread has 
grain.  You must stitch with the grain, and  not against it.  This will 
reduce wear on thread and fuzzy results.   Draw the thread through your thumb 
and index finger in each direction.  One  will feel smoother than the other.  
Once you have determined that,  always thread your needle from the end that 
produces the smoothest  feel.  Even DMC embroidery floss has a grain.  It 
will take a while to  develop touch sensitivity, but it is highly 
recommended.   
 
Grain of thread is something that was taught to young girls in  American 
7th grade home economics classes 60 years ago.  READ  PLEASE:  The sewing 
thread for your sewing machine comes off the spool in  the direction you need 
to 
thread into the needle's eye - not only  for a sewing machine - but also 
for hand sewing. 
 
Unfortunately, this is not true of all thread coming off a spool.   Some 
modern manufacturers seem to do whatever is convenient, being  unfamiliar with 
how we use the thread (explained in the book referenced in (2)  above).  
 
4.  Julie, the nicest way to learn lacemaking and advance quickly is  with 
others who share your interest.  Are you aware of the Chesapeake  Region 
Lace Guild?  _www.crlg.org/_ (http://www.crlg.org/) .  They draw members  from 
the states surrounding Washington DC.  Also, The Embroiderers' Guild  of 
America has several chapters near you.  http://www.egausa.org/  
 
Needle laces are more likely to be taught by The Embroiderers' Guild.   
They embrace all lace works made with a threaded needle, and have quite a  few 
teachers in the U.S.  At this time in history, lace guilds seem to be  
focusing on bobbin lace.  (I have belonged to 4 local lace guilds between  
Maine 
and Washington DC for up to 4 decades, and to EGA for nearly 50  years, so 
feel secure in this claim.)
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
----------------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 3/21/2016 3:12:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jsyz...@comcast.net writes:

Should I try a different thread?  I guess threads are either cotton,  
linen, or silk.  Or any of those types right out of the question for  Hollie 
Point, or needlelace in general?  What do I look for in a  thread?
I am wondering if maybe some threads stand up to the abuse  better than 
others and Tanne 50 is not the sturdiest choice.  Also, what  about the final 
result?  Do some threads give nicer final results?   And what about the feel 
of thread as you work with it?  In bobbin lace I  enjoy the way different 
thread material feels differently as I work with  it.
My book mentions "Brok 160 or Egyptian Cotton 120".  How do  Brok and 
Egyptian Cotton compare with Tanne 50? 
What size thread  should I be using anyway?  Brok 160 and EC 120 are, 
according to my  thread chart, significantly smaller than Tanne 50.  Should I 
stick with  threads the same size as Tanne 50 or would I find that I can after 
all make  needlelace in good light with a smaller thread?  In general I am 
the sort  of person who likes lace to be fine.  I get bored with coarse  lace.
Maybe you guys will talk about threads andmake me feel inspired  to try new 
ones.

Julie Shalack
Laurel, Maryland,  USA

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