Since I happen to have all my books in front of me, to Nancy’s point…

According to Wardle in Victorian Lace, (110-112) a certain amount of
Valenciennes had been made in Ypres in the 18th century, but did not assume
any importance until the 19th century when Belgium took the lead…According
to M. Felix Aubry(…) it was M. Felix Duhaijon-Brunfaut of Ypres who, in
1833, decided that the time had come to revitalize the industry…It was
deemed necessary not only to give the lace a greater appeal by emphasizing the
contrast between a densely white pattern and a cobwebby ground, but also to
make its production both quicker and cheaper. To achieve this the practice was
adopted of adding threads to form the toile.  These would be carried over at
the back of the work, like those of the mesh ground in Brussels bobbin lace,
while the work was in progress, and the redundant threads cut away after the
lace was finished. This also meant that a lighter type of ground could be made
and it was at this period that the airy diamond-shaped meshes, by which
nineteenth century Valenciennes can easily be distinguished from that of the
eighteenth century came into being.

Not an answer to my question, but interesting nonetheless.
Devon

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