Sorry, in my haste I sent this from the AOL and not the gmail account.
Devon

Many thanks to all those who are helping me with the puzzle of the Saxony
lace. I have received some very insightful replies, both privately and
publicly.
Some themes emerge. Bohemia is a confusing concept, geographically and
culturally.
Several people, Jean, and Leonard, tended to identify the lace as resembling
photographs that several books called Russian lace. Undoubtedly there are
similarities with Russian lace, for instance the floral subtext. Russian lace
itself changes over time taking on dramatically different appearances. One
thing that sort of bothers me about calling this piece Russian lace (in
medium) is that Russian lace often has a much more airy appearance, even
though it is also a tape lace that rambles around the way this one does. The
fact that the linen stitch is spread out as close to the edge of the tape as
possible and there are no decorative tapes seems to be a feature. One sees
this on Czech lace on ethnic costumes.
Lorelei focused more on the loopty-lous as I call them, but Carolina would
call them Vermicelli. This term Vermicelli also appears in Palliser. Another
term I think I have seen is occhiolini, which I believe translates to eyelet.
But this term or one like it (occhiwork) also seems to apply to tatting as
Alex’s Illustrated Dictionary of Lacemaking defines it that way. Lorelei was
kind enough to provide an entire history of laces going back in time with this
feature. Most interesting was the role it played in the development of what
would later become raised work in point d’Angleterre and Honiton. However,
most of the use of the vermicelli seems to be a specialty of Italian and
Eastern European lacemakers, at least that is my impression.
This feature, the vermicelli, is one that gives me pause also about putting
such a piece in the category of Russian lace. Ilske thinks it is very
characteristic of Czech lace. In fact, I am wondering if the term “Church”
lace was a mistaken transcription of Czech lace. Back then a lot of things
were originally handwritten and not always as clearly as one might hope.
High marks to Leonard for his memory of the work of Mincoff and Marriage. Here
the subject of Saxony lace is addressed head on, and the date of the work,
1907 corresponds directly to the date when the piece arrived in the
collection, 1908. Sadly, the examples given do not resemble the piece at all.
But, double word score for Leonard, for having found a reference to making
Mechlin in Turnhout! (However, one may interpret the word Mechlin in this
context!)
I am wondering if Czech lace can be considered a “medium” or style in
itself.
Devon




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