Hi There is another way to go about this. I have been using wooden adjustment knobs for shop equipment that are made a bit differently. First a hole is drilled in the knob, or face plate. The hole is sized to the root diameter of the flats on the nut. Then the nut is then pressed into the hole to make the knob, or in this case the face plate. It is important to press, do not hammer, the nut home. Hammering will crush the wood fibers. The pressed fit of the nut into the wood is exact and tight which eliminates the need for adhesive. When pressed together the wood fibers do not appear to be crushed. I have been using hard woods such as oak and walnut and am not sure of the holding power in soft woods. Also, I have a press for this job, but I have also used vice to seat the nut with excellent results. I am curious about the face plate pictured. As pictured, the nylon lock-ring will engage the spindle before the threads. Won’t that make the nut hard to thread onto the spindle? Coach
________________________________ From: Tim Krause <artmarb...@comcast.net> To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 8:48:45 PM Subject: Temporary Face Plates Hello All, I got this idea from a friend who passed the idea onto me from Bonnie Klein. She makes temporary face plates from wood. This is done by simply embedding a nyloc nut into the back of some wood and using epoxy to hold it in. Obviously the thread of the nut matches your spindle. The final dimension of the face plate is about 3" diameter and made from a common 2x4. I drill a 1-5/8" hole for the nut on the drill press using a forstner bit. The round body is then roughed out on a bandsaw to 3.25" and the nut is glued in. I use a 1" single piece split shaft collar on the legacy spindle to give the nut a shoulder to square itself. Once the temporary face plate is mounted I use a 1/2" straight bit to turn the face true. The outside is turned round. You can fit up to 3.5" diameter temporary face plate on the legacy before the index pin gets in the way. Now I can use this to mount work and not have to worry about a router bit hitting a steel chuck. The work is either glued, carpet taped, jam fit, clamped with the tailstock, or even a screwed in the center to hold the work. It's pretty flexible, basic and cheap to make several of these. My picture shows a well used temporary face plate. When the face is almost gone, I glue a piece of wood to the face plate, trim to size and I'm ready to go some more. Does anyone else do something like this for creative work piece mounting on the legacy? -Tim -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
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