HAY Guys!
I just learned something new on this topic . (sorta)
On turning long spindles that have some play in them, instead of useing a
steady rest. (like what I normaly do.) A Friend of mine uses two four jaw
chucks. one on both ends of the spindle. to me is sounds like pulling cotton
candy. but he swares it removes most of the play/slop in the turning. I have
not tried this method yet. but I respect this gentelman, so I will be buying
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LTCA18.html and trying out this method as
soon as I can.
Now Im going to play in the shop for a while. ;-)
talk to you all latter.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "curt george" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: New Spur Drive
Hello Bill (and everyone!)
I just got home from work.
If I understand you correctly, the main problem is??? not having a good
enough mounting form the Legacy drive hubs on your lathe? Or is it, you
are just looking for a better way to mount everything on both machines?
On the topic of the everything hub. I am sorry that I cant help you out on
that one.
But I have had a lot of luck mounting the Legacy drive hubs on both for my
machines .
Believe it or not I believe that, the surface of the hub mounting dose not
have to run 100% true to the machine, Since the hubs ride in the groves of
the index plate ,those holes in the plate are the realy my main concern. I
have made two different sets of indexing/drive plates for the Legacy and
my lathe.
( slightly off the topic, my original indexing plate was punched with a
die and dose a much better job of locking the hubs in place Via. the new
laser cut models.)
What I did was to lock both indexing plates together and then check the
groves to make sure they are equal. (with a little filing they are now.)
Then I marked the tops of each. Now all that I have to do is make sure I
mark the top of the indexing hub, and make sure it correlates with the
indexing plates marked surface on both machines when I switch form one
machine to the next.
This little step helps me insure that I have everything as true as
possible when switching form one machine to the other.
Now I may be fooling my self? but it dose seem to help me out a lot. and I
switch form one machine to the other quite often on most of the jobs that
I do.
Try it and see if it helps you out too.
I wish you luck.
I will talk to you all latter.
Have a GREAT DAY! ;-)
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Bulkeley" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: New Spur Drive
your right Tim I just tried it in my lathe turns ok no vibration but when
I turn the piece around no matter what I do it wont run true
I even turned the centre point true in the wood lathe first but it still
runs out when I turn it around
Back to the drawing board looks like I will have to machine one like you
did from scratch to get every thing running true
this spur drive of mine is ok if you place the same piece in the same way
each time and never turn it around
but we need one that you can transfer work from the lathe to the legacy
and back again.
I guess mine has its use if you have heaps of the same thing to turn on
the legacy and not enough hubs to go round and you don't wish to unscrew
and screw up hubs all day
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Krause" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: New Spur Drive
Hi Bill,
I like the idea in theory, but the hub system does not run true.
Originally
I installed the Legacy drive stub in my lathe and just used the stock
drive
hubs. Both of my drive stubs and hubs had some vibration and the part
was
not cutting true in the lathe. There was really no way to make it
right. I
even faced the front of both of my drive stubs to try and get the hubs
to
seat perpendicular to the spindle axis and that helped but not good
enough
for what I was doing at the moment.
Did I ever show the group my faced, tapped and reamed drive hub? I
faced
the front to get rid of the excess weld ( and make the face true),
tapped a
10-32 thread in the center about an 1" deep and made a 1/4" reamed hole
in
the center that is about 1/2" deep. It allows me to mount a piece
perfectly
in the center using a 1/4" steel dowel pin. The tapped hole is used to
hold
custom plates for hollow turning.
-Tim
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to
[email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to
[email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to
[email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy
Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to [email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
