Re: Improving Mill Base

[mwfoscue]

Brandon,

I own a Shopsmith and they have a very well engineered retractable wheel set.  The casters in the OEM kit are "ok".  However, you can probably modify them with better wheels.  They even sell replacement casters that perform very well.  Search their website or call them for all the details (their Customer Service Reps are EXCELLENT!).  They are designed to allow you to step on a lever that puts the casters in any one of three positions: 1. Raised off floor - so machine rests on its fixed feet/base;  2. Lowered to raise machine up about a quarter of an inch;  3. Lowered to raise machine up about a half inch (allows you to roll over small "obstacles" like wood chips, floor cracks, bumps, slow kids, etc.)

Here is a link to the OEM casters on Shopsmith's site:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/pl_casters.htm

I feel that with "Joe Biunno/Bill Bulkeley ingenuity" you can get the Shopsmith casters to solve the mobility part of your challenges. 

As for Bill's recommendations - I agree.  Figure out exactly where you will want the Mill's "Duty Location" to be.  Mark the 4 corners/leg positions, and move the Mill aside.  Snap a chalkline diagonally from corner to corner.  At the intersection place a brick or block of wood that is about 2" high.  Get a 4 foot (or longer) level.  Place one end of level on brick/block - then swing it to the four Mill "leg" locations - measuring how far level is from floor at all four spots.  You now know which foot is the highest, lowest, and in-betweens.  You can now do the math to figure out how much you will need to build up the one, two, or three leg spots to have the Mill's feet ALL resting on the same plane.  Note: rather than making the "buildup" permanent - you may  want to fabricate 1, 2, or 3 "shim blocks" that you can temporarily "attach" to the floor using double-sided tape.  Just be sure you account for the added thickness of the tape and LABEL each with which spot it goes on.

NOTE: If you have (or a friend has) a rotary laser you don't need the 4' level.  Just put laser on a block at the intersection of the diagonals. (On block because it's easier to measure when you are ~6" to 12" off the floor than right down there in the 1/2" to 3/4" area.)  Then turn laser on and take readings on a ruler placed vertical at all four leg locations.  Then do the math, build-up, etc, as described above.

I hope the above is "clear as a bell" and helps you solve a challenge.

Mac

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>From: Bill Bulkeley
>Sent: Jul 19, 2014 9:07 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Improving Mill Base
>
>if you have the height in your shop have you considered mounting you mill
>vertical an idea i believe curt had at one time
>or perhaps making mounting points in the floor all level i did that in my
>old shop wouldn't matter what the floor is like then the mill would be level
>and you can still move it for room just set it up on the level points when
>you want to use it
>Bill

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>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brandon Khoury"
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:43 AM
>Subject: Improving Mill Base
>
>
>I am looking for ideas on improving the base of my 1000ex. There are a
>couple of goals I wish to accomplish.
>
>First, my shop is in the basement of a 117 year old Victorian. I don't
>know how long ago the basement floor was poured, but it is uneven due so
>settling. The center of the floor is higher than the areas around the
>walls. So, my first goal is to stiffen up the mill to reduce twisting along
>the long rails.
>
>Second, space in the shop is limited and the base takes up a lot of real
>estate. Adding some storage would be nice, if it doesn't make the mill so
>heavy the it is impossible for one person to move.
>
>Third, and probably the most difficult goal to achieve, is a way to
>raise/lower the casters when the they are not in use. Similar to a hybrid
>table saw. I imagine there will need to be support feet in the center of
>the unit when it is not being moved around. I will need them to be
>adjustable to accommodate the floor, but I will need them to lift up off
>the ground when the casters are lowered. I hope the makes sense....
>
>Any comments, questions, ideas are welcome. I'm not to the point at which
>I am ready to start the hands on portion of this project. I have a few
>other builds that are ready first. But, I would like to start the designing
>stage.
>
>Thanks,
>Brandon

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