This a whopper of a message, but one thing that is screaming out here is the 
depth of cut issue.  Legacy recommends 1/8" but you can do much more in softer 
woods.  The spirals coming together my guess would be the drive center is 
slipping.  The nut turning is also a sign that you are taking too deep of a 
cut.  This is assuming the carriage is moving freely in the first place.   You 
should be able to slide the carriage with your finger.  Dyna-glide helps.   Do 
you have a double locking collar for the drive center?  It allows you to lock 
the drive center in place without having to pound the drive center into the 
spindle.  Please don't pound the drive center into the spindle, or machines are 
not like a lathe!

As far as sanding goes, a sanding mop works great.  Klinspor sells them.   I 
like the gold ones.  There is a mandrel that works in a drill press.  

I'd hone your bit and give things a  third shot with lighter cuts and see what 
happens.  Eventually you will get a feel for the depth and feed speed, and even 
the speed of the router.  That too could cause burning but I really suspect you 
took the edge of the bit quickly.

How's that for an answer?

-Tim


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Drake 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 7:28 AM
  Subject: Newbie could use some advice.


  I got a broken model 1000 from Ebay about a year ago.  After getting parts 
from Legacy to make it functional and 6 months of looking at it, reading the 
books, and your emails, I sat down to try making something.  



  It was just a maple budvase based on the spiral candlestick pattern.  The 
only variation from the one in the project book was that it was 1.25” diameter 
spiral to accommodate an 11/16” x 6” hole down the center to hold a glass tube.



  Both the first and second attempts were learning experiences.  



  Trial #1 - I used the bottom flattener and turned it round.  NO problems.  I 
thought this was a great tool.  Much faster and easier then doing it on the 
lathe.  I started using a ¾” roundover bit with 6 starts and the D gear 
according to the charts.  Worked beautifully for the first 4 inches when the 
nut on the gears slipped and it stopped spinning.  I tightened the nut, went 
back to the beginning of that line and started again.  At the end of the run, I 
put the stop in place and moved the carriage by ¾”.  On the third spiral, I 
turned the handle the wrong way and learned to use the stop at the bottom as 
well as the top.  I fixed this later by turning the tendon for the base right 
up to the bottom of the spiral rather then have a bead at the bottom as I 
intended.  The rest of the turning was fantastic.  I ended up with a great 
piece that was only a little different from what I had wanted.  The only issues 
were 3 small brown places where the router bit burnt the wood and the one area 
where I had a 1” long groove going straight up the side.  I was estatic and 
wanted to make one with no errors (or at least not such an obvious one).



  Trial #2 – Turned round and did the bud top with no problems.  Put the 
roundover bit in and started making the bottom ring groove.  Bit was really 
leaving burnt marks on it and I thought I must be going too slow.    I started 
up the spirals and kept getting burn marks no matter how fast or slow I went.  
I did the 6 spirals and the upper ring but could already tell something was 
off.  The bottom of the groove was very ragged with lots of tear out and there 
was a burn mark on both sides of the groove about half way up.  Then I noticed 
that I had six perfectly placed spirals at the bottom and 5 spirals at the top 
(3 expected size and 2 equally fat ones).  I looked at it a little more and 
found that it has somehow jumped over to join two spirals together.  Not sure 
how that happened as I had learned my lesson and had put the locks on the upper 
screw as well.  Also, the edges of the spirals were almost scalloped rather 
then smooth like trial #1.



  My questions are:



  1: What did I do that caused the burning/scalloping/tear out?  To my eye, the 
bit looks fine if a little blackened (magnate ½” shank #7502) and it preformed 
great on the previous trial.  I am using a Porter Cable 690 router in the 
plunge bracket with an Eliminator Chuck.



  2: What could have caused it to jump so as to make the spirals join together 
and how can I avoid that happening again?



  3: How fast should I be progressing (inches/min) with the bit?  Is there an 
optimum speed?



  4: When using a sharp pointed bit like this, should I have made a shallow cut 
first then come back with a full depth cut?  Are these sharp pointed router 
bits more liable to “follow the grain” the way a sharp pointed drill bit will 
when going into the end of a piece of wood?



  5: When I was doing the bottom flattener, I was turning the handles pretty 
much in unison (1 revolution each in a CCW direction, about 4-5 seconds/turn).  
This fed the uncut wood into the bottom of the bit and advanced at a rate of 
about 0.25”/turn.  It looked to me like it was handling the cutting fine.  Is 
this about right or was this too fast?  The Legacy motor (that I was not using) 
turns faster then this. 



  6: How do you sand these things?



  7: Is there anyone in the Gaithersburg, Maryland/Washington DC area that is 
experienced that I could come watch turn something for an afternoon? (I’ll 
provide a 6-pack of your choice for the privilege.)



  A little background.  I am pretty experienced at building and remodeling 
houses, metal working, stained glass, and am getting pretty good with a lathe 
but I have little experience with band saws, routers, or furniture making in 
general.  My goal is to make a union of lathe work, LOM, metal working, and 
stain glass and see what can come out of it.



  Steve


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