mike,
i would be curious to know how much lateral stress an 8" addition
would put on the tailstock and headstock...it could be reinforced to avoid
that, but it would seem to be an issue...and although i do not have a
crane, we do have ceiling mounted hoists...LOL...but a harbor freight
engine lift would also serve this situation very well...and not cost much
at all...this is a very good thread, having a lot of fun with
it...thanks...joe
On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 7:25:49 PM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote:
>
> Curtis replied about Bill lowering the the tail stock and head stock a
> few inches and chaining them to the original drive. That is on the same
> line I was thinking, only difference to this would be to lift it above it's
> center point about 8". This would also require you to extend the side
> supports to lower the bottom rails and center rails away from the top
> rails.
>
>
>
> Mike
> OK
> On 1/21/2015 11:46 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
>
> hi mike!,
> you might get some answers from the reply i was typing while
> you were posting yours...i have done my calculations thinking that i need
> to get my workpiece between the bed rails(currently a bit more than 11"),
> and i need the "Y" and "Z" axis' carriage to ride over the workpiece...so
> an increase in the depth, as well as the height, seems to be in order...in
> the set up you mentioned can you still flute and twist a piece that large
> in diameter?...and if you are doing the turning with the workpiece
> protruding outside the rails(with the rails above and below the workpiece,
> i assume), that will work for you on your woodchuck, but for the legacy
> that came after that, if there is a center support, that can't
> happen(models 1500,1800,2000...and maybe the 1200, not sure)...anyway,
> certainly would like your input on this idea...much appreciated...joe
>
> On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 11:59:33 AM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote:
>>
>> I would think that you should increase depth rather than width.
>> Question is, how big of a turning are you wanting to do? My wood chuck is
>> only 9" wide at the rails. I can turn a 19.375" piece. All accomplished
>> by making it taller, not wider. I am only supposed to turn 11" but that
>> just seems like a starting point to me LOL.
>> Mike
>> OK
>> On 1/21/2015 5:10 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
>>
>> and since we are on the subject of the gear carriage, here is something i
>> will throw out there and see if anyone has any suggestions...in
>> considering( and i will emphasize the word "considering"...LOL) widening
>> the bed to increase the turning capacity of the machine,what could be done
>> to the gear carriage to accommodate the added width that must be made to
>> it, while still being able to use all the legacy gears, including the
>> reversing carriage to do opposite twists?...i have worked out all that has
>> to be done to the machine to widen it, but saved the worst for last...and i
>> would not consider making a complete set of custom made gears a
>> solution...too expensive...high points to anyone who has a solution using
>> only items found in a mcmaster-carr catalog!...LMAO!... later guys!...joe
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 5:55:36 AM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote:
>>>
>>> good morning to all(at least it's morning for some of us!)...the swivel
>>> bearing is an excellent idea, but due to it's overall size, it seems it
>>> would take a bit of machining and major modification to the whole gear
>>> carriage to make that happen...double checked the taper situation this
>>> morning and there will not be a problem with doing tapers on my extended
>>> machine if i just loosen the split collars a bit...not sure if there would
>>> be an issue on a 1200 or 1500...and then there is the bronze bushing in the
>>> middle gear...there is a decent amount of play with that gear, which i am
>>> not going to mess with(for now, anyway!...LOL!)...excellent pick up by tim,
>>> as i did have to cut a little bit off the end of the idler gear carriage to
>>> allow the smallest gear to be used...joe
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 10:47:59 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Can you still install the smallest gear?
>>>>
>>>> -Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>>>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 20, 2015 5:58 PM
>>>> *Subject:* Re: gear carriage bearing upgrade
>>>>
>>>> sorry guys, forgot to mention this in my initial e-mail...the needle
>>>> bearings are in their own steel housing, so if you loosen the screws a bit
>>>> to the split shaft collars,there is enough allowance for the bearing to
>>>> move within the confines of the shaft collar to do a taper to your
>>>> work...in fact you can "dial it in" ,so to speak, to still have a tight
>>>> tolerance while setting up the taper...not sure if there is enough
>>>> allowance to deal with a full taper though...i'll play with that
>>>> tomorrow...but i would be curious to know if you could do a full taper and
>>>> not have any gear issues on, for example, a legacy 1200?...thanks for the
>>>> responses...joe
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 7:04:37 PM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> On longer mills this upgrade may not effect tapers too much. But the
>>>>> shorter mills will bind this up, I'm afraid. You should see how sloppy
>>>>> my
>>>>> Wood Chuck is, never ever jumped a tooth. And I have all the fine teeth
>>>>> gears too. Hope this does not become a problem for you. Only way to
>>>>> tell
>>>>> is set it at full taper.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> OK
>>>>>
>>>>> On 1/20/2015 5:45 PM, Bill Bulkeley wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Can the mill still do tapers I have found that I like a bit of slop
>>>>> in everything in the gears and linkage so there is enough movement for
>>>>> when you lower one end of the rails to mill tapers.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com [
>>>>> mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
>>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 21 January 2015 10:03 AM
>>>>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>>>>> *Subject:* gear carriage bearing upgrade
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ok, so doing some work on the headstock end and saw that the gear
>>>>> carriage assembly was a bit loose and "floating" around a bit...a further
>>>>> inspection revealed that the bronze bearings were worn a bit and that was
>>>>> enough to cause gears to wobble and perhaps,at times, not mesh
>>>>> properly...some quick measurements and a dive into the mcmaster book and
>>>>> i
>>>>> could see with just a few shaft collars(3 total) and a couple of needle
>>>>> bearings, things should tighten up much better than replacing the bronze
>>>>> bushings...so an improvement was called for...a little bit of welding,
>>>>> some
>>>>> minimal grinding and the job is done...total time was 1 1/2 hours, start
>>>>> to
>>>>> finish...the end result is an incredible difference...the carriage is
>>>>> very
>>>>> tight and does not move or waver at all...replacing the bearings is a
>>>>> snap,
>>>>> as well, as split collars were used, although i might expect the needle
>>>>> bearings to last a very long time...with this mod, the machine is now
>>>>> totally on bearings(in the process of doing the "Z" axis now), all axis'
>>>>> and all turning points...sorry for the two bad photos, close-ups just
>>>>> don't
>>>>> come out well with the camera i am currently using...and haven't decided
>>>>> what color to paint this one yet, waiting for a suggestion from
>>>>> curtis...LOL!...anyway, all comments welcome and more mods to
>>>>> follow...and
>>>>> if anyone should want more detailed info on this mod(like specific
>>>>> mcmaster
>>>>> numbers, for example) or any i have done in the past, feel free to
>>>>> ask...thanks...joe
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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