If you lowered the centres could you not lower the centre support as well to 
achieve the larger dia

I did do as curtis suggested and lowered my centre and tail stock to achieve 
larger dia  work

Slop was not a problem it never is as long as you take it up by always turning 
in the one direction 

And not changing direction while cutting.

Lowering the tail stock and head stock would be much easier I think than 
totally rebuilding the mill by widening it, if the only hurdle is the centre 
supports I would think that would be an easier path to go but I am interested 
in what you come up with. Here is the pics of my side cutting mod which shows 
how I lowered everything. I don’t have pics any more of doing larger dia work 
with it

http://www.ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/side_cutting_mod.html

 

Bill

 

 

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 22 January 2015 8:29 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com
Subject: Re: gear carriage bearing upgrade

 

well, that concept would work with a machine that does not have a center 
support...and not because of the vertical support, but for the brace that goes 
front to back on the longer machines...and you would have to modify the 
tailstock as well...and there can be no play in the chain drive if you were to 
do any spiral work...did a little research and it seems the 1200,1800 and 2000 
all had center supports with the bottom brace going front to back...and 15" is 
a very nice capacity, but i would want at least 18"...i originally was shooting 
for 20", but the same problems that are there with an 18" modification are 
there but to a much bigger degree of difficulty and not worth pursuing, in my 
opinion...so i am currently shooting for 18", but that could change to a 
smaller dimension...and as far as time goes, i am guessing that this would be a 
three day mod(total of 24 hours)...just a good amount of cutting and welding(oh 
yeah!, and some painting!...LOL)...cut, and lengthen the vertical 
supports(total of 14 in my case, total of 6 and 8 for the 1200 or 1800)...cut 
and lengthen the head and tail stocks, the bottom cross pieces( 1 piece, 2 in 
my case) and the bed risers(2 pieces)...do what is necessary to the gear 
carriage and you are done...easier said than done,for sure, but manageable and 
doable, in my opinion...joe

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 3:41:34 PM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:

Hello Joe and everyone.

Since we are thinking out side the box. (so to speak)  How about a high-bread 
between the two ideas, your machine  and Mikes higher concepts. just might be 
able to work together. (of a mater of coarse things will have to be modified 
you head stock a little, to make it work, but Just think of this idea. Make a 
new center point for your head-stock.

I think Bill (but I could be wrong.)  did something like what Im thinking of at 
this moment,  it a while back ( a few years ago So Im not really sure of all 
the details. but...). He made a second center lower on the Legacy head stock,, 
I think it was 3" or 4" lower, and hooked the two heads up with a chain and 
sprockets so they would turn at the same time.... I would think that 4" of 
depth would give you the ability to turns a much larger turning, On my 1000 the 
lower rails are at 15"between centers, if I lower the center I should be able 
to turn a log much larger than what I can do now.

Its just an idea to think about, I dont think it would be to hard to do,  a set 
of ball-bearings , new shaft and two sprockets and a chain to link the to 
together, and then the steel to wield onto the original head-stock. the beauty 
here is your machine really dose not change the chain can be used or not when 
not turning large spindles. AND THE TIME it would save vs the widening of the 
machine...

Again just an idea to mull over.

C.A.G.

 

  _____  

From: "'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
<legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >
To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 12:46:20 PM
Subject: Re: gear carriage bearing upgrade

 

hi mike!,

             you might get some answers from the reply i was typing while you 
were posting yours...i have done my calculations thinking that i need to get my 
workpiece between the bed rails(currently a bit more than 11"), and i need the 
"Y" and "Z" axis' carriage to ride over the workpiece...so an increase in the 
depth, as well as the height, seems to be in order...in the set up you 
mentioned can you still flute and twist a piece that large in diameter?...and 
if you are doing the turning with the workpiece protruding outside the 
rails(with the rails above and below the workpiece, i assume), that will work 
for you on your woodchuck, but for the legacy that came after that, if there is 
a center support, that can't happen(models 1500,1800,2000...and maybe the 1200, 
not sure)...anyway, certainly would like your input on this idea...much 
appreciated...joe

 

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 11:59:33 AM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote:

I would think that you should increase depth rather than width.  Question is, 
how big of a turning are you wanting to do?  My wood chuck is only 9" wide at 
the rails.  I can turn a 19.375" piece.  All accomplished by making it taller, 
not wider.  I am only supposed to turn 11" but that just seems like a starting 
point to me LOL.
Mike
OK

On 1/21/2015 5:10 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:

and since we are on the subject of the gear carriage, here is something i will 
throw out there and see if anyone has any suggestions...in considering( and i 
will emphasize the word "considering"...LOL) widening the bed to increase the 
turning capacity of the machine,what could be done to the gear carriage to 
accommodate the added width that must be made to it, while still being able to 
use all the legacy gears, including the reversing carriage to do opposite 
twists?...i have worked out all that has to be done to the machine to widen it, 
but saved the worst for last...and i would not consider making a complete set 
of custom made gears a solution...too expensive...high points to anyone who has 
a solution using only items found in a mcmaster-carr catalog!...LMAO!... later 
guys!...joe

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 5:55:36 AM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote: 

good morning to all(at least it's morning for some of us!)...the swivel bearing 
is an excellent idea, but due to it's overall size, it seems it would take a 
bit of machining and major modification to the whole gear carriage to make that 
happen...double checked the taper situation this morning and there will not be 
a problem with doing tapers on my extended machine if i just loosen the split 
collars a bit...not sure if there would be an issue on a 1200 or 1500...and 
then there is the bronze bushing in the middle gear...there is a decent amount 
of play with that gear, which i am not going to mess with(for now, 
anyway!...LOL!)...excellent pick up by tim, as i did have to cut a little bit 
off the end of the idler gear carriage to allow the smallest gear to be 
used...joe

On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 10:47:59 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote: 

 

Can you still install the smallest gear?

 

-Tim

 

----- Original Message ----- 

From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 

To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 

Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 5:58 PM

Subject: Re: gear carriage bearing upgrade

 

sorry guys, forgot to mention this in my initial e-mail...the needle bearings 
are in their own steel housing, so if you loosen the screws a bit to the split 
shaft collars,there is enough allowance  for the bearing to move within the 
confines of the shaft collar to do a taper to your work...in fact you can "dial 
it in" ,so to speak, to still have a tight tolerance while setting up the 
taper...not sure if there is enough allowance to deal with a full taper 
though...i'll play with that tomorrow...but i would be curious to know if you 
could do a full taper and not have any gear issues on, for example, a legacy 
1200?...thanks for the responses...joe 


On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 7:04:37 PM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote: 

On longer mills this upgrade may not effect tapers too much.  But the shorter 
mills will bind this up, I'm afraid.  You should see how sloppy my Wood Chuck 
is, never ever jumped a tooth.  And I have all the fine teeth gears too.  Hope 
this does not become a problem for you.  Only way to tell is set it at full 
taper.

Mike
OK

On 1/20/2015 5:45 PM, Bill Bulkeley wrote:

Can the mill still do tapers I have found that I like a bit of slop in 
everything in the gears and linkage so there is enough movement  for when you 
lower one end of the rails to mill tapers.

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 21 January 2015 10:03 AM
To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
Subject: gear carriage bearing upgrade

 

ok, so doing some work on the headstock end and saw that the gear carriage 
assembly was a bit loose and "floating" around a bit...a further inspection 
revealed that the bronze bearings were worn a bit and that was enough to cause 
gears to wobble and perhaps,at times, not mesh properly...some quick 
measurements and a dive into the mcmaster book and i could see with just a few 
shaft collars(3 total) and a couple of needle bearings, things should tighten 
up much better than replacing the bronze bushings...so an improvement was 
called for...a little bit of welding, some minimal grinding and the job is 
done...total time was 1 1/2 hours, start to finish...the end result is an 
incredible difference...the carriage is very tight and does not move or waver 
at all...replacing the bearings is a snap, as well, as split collars were used, 
although i might expect the needle bearings to last a very long time...with 
this mod, the machine is now totally on bearings(in the process of doing the 
"Z" axis now), all axis' and all turning points...sorry for the two bad photos, 
close-ups just don't come out well with the camera i am currently using...and 
haven't decided what color to paint this one yet, waiting for a suggestion from 
curtis...LOL!...anyway, all comments welcome and more mods to follow...and if 
anyone should want more detailed info on this mod(like specific mcmaster 
numbers, for example) or any i have done in the past, feel free to 
ask...thanks...joe

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
<http://JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED> .
To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
<http://JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED> .
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> .
To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
<javascript:> .
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Reply via email to