Hello Jim. How small is the Error? and in what way?? do you mean that the cylinder/spindle tappers is some way form one side to the other? or there is tare out and the shape is not round?
There is a small learning curve that needs to be understood when using the Legacy, ( Most people just call it the trial and error method.) I would start with making sure all four corners are on the same plane, I would use an adjustable square and check and make sure the rails are the same height form each-other . (this is from the top rail the the lower one.) or if making a tapper the two ends are at least the same as each-other. When cutting make sure your router is 1/4"-1/2" off-set from the center-line of the work. its not as critical but there is an article called clime milling VS undercutting. (See attachment.) You may also need to make sure that there is no slop in your slides, your machine must move freely but if your slides have some play in them, then the slop/play can be transferred into your work. If there is any movement, (UP/Down, or side to side) you will need to adjust your slides to remove any play. I need to run now. PLAY with your machine and get to know it better. I rec emend to use green wood or free wood for play, (the fire wood pile or scrap wood) Dont spend much money for wood that most likely will not turn out when trying new things. I also like to tell everyone, Lastly one last note. Never tell anyone what you are making until its done... That way the 4 poster bed, that you planed to make, that turned into a pencil box, will not look so bad. ;-) Good luck. And have a GREAT DAY. C.A.G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Riggen" <jrigge...@gmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 10:46:48 PM Subject: Accurate setup I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did not. I think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite small. How do I correct this? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--- Begin Message ---Up Cut vs. Down Cut Router Bits Choosing the right one Text & Photos by Tom Hintz Choosing between up and down cut router bits is one of many things in woodworking that can be frustrating until the reasoning behind the design difference is understood a little better. The number of email questions on this subject instigated this story. The Difference Though the flutes run in opposite directions, telling an up cut from a down cut bit can be difficult if you cannot imagine their rotation in the router. Though a router always turns in the same direction, from the operators perspective, that rotation appears to reverse depending on if the router is bit down in the common hand-held mode or bit up, as when mounted in a router table. With the bit down, the rotation is clockwise. That means the side of the bit farthest from the operator is turning left to right, the near side right to left. This is very important for feed direction, as we always want the cutting edges turning against the feed direction, not with it. The down cut bit (left) leaves very clean edges while the up cut version (right) is far better at evacuating chips but that action can fray the edges of the cut to some degree. Click image to enlarge When the router is oriented with the bit up, as when mounted in a router table, the side of the bit closest to the operator is turning left to right and the back side right to left. Because the wood is fed against the rotation of the cutting edges, we almost always work against the front side of the bit. If the wood is fed into a router bit on the wrong side, the feed direction matches the bits rotation, making a dangerous kick out all but certain. Feeding the wood with rather than against bit rotation allows the cutting edges to become highly efficient feed dogs that grab the wood, accelerate it and shoot it off the table at dangerous speeds. Up Cut Bits This up cut bit is great for deep mortises because of how well it evacuates the chips. The minor fraying of the edges is of little concern because they will be hidden by the tenon shoulders when the project is assembled. Click image to enlarge Up cut bits are very efficient at evacuating chips from the hole or slot it is cutting. This is especially important when the hole is ¼"-deep or more. Deep holes or grooves still have to be cut using multiple light cuts, but the upward direction of the flutes while rotating prevent the debris from building up in the hole and binding or even breaking the bit. The problem with up cut bits is that the same action of the flutes that brings the chips up can also lift or fray the wood fibers around the edges of the cut. While this damage is usually minor, especially with good quality bits, it can be noticeable if those edges will be visible when the project is assembled. Up cut bits are frequently used for cutting mortises because of their depth. Since the edges of a mortise are eventually hidden by the shoulders of the tenon that will be fit to it, this chipping or fraying will be hidden after assembly and have no impact on the finished project. Down Cut Bits This closer look at the grooves cut by the down cut (left) and up cut (right) shows the marked difference in the edges they produce. Click image to enlarge The downward slicing action of a down cut bit leaves a very clean, crisp edge around the hole or groove it cuts. While chips still are evacuated from the hole, a down cut bit is far less efficient in this respect than is an up cut design. This chip ejection deficiency of down cut bits is minimized by the relatively shallow cuts they most commonly are used to make. Down cut spiral bits are a good choice for cutting dados or shallow grooves, especially when the edges will be visible when the project is assembled. Down cut bits require a slightly slower feed rate. This reduced pace allows the bit a little more time to throw chips out and for them to be re cut into smaller pieces that eventually are thrown from the hole or slot. Making shallow cuts to achieve the full depth needed is always important, but especially so with a down cut bit. The combination of a deep cut and a build up of chips can cause the bit to over heat and even break. For most woodworkers, the down cut type of spiral bit is most useful, particularly for those using a router to cut dados, rabbets and visible slots. Some woodworkers like cutting mortises with a router, table mounted or hand-held. For them, the up cut bit will be most efficient. The ideal situation is to have both types of spiral bits in the drawer, in the size or sizes you most often use. The quest for more tools certainly does not end with spiral router bits. Up and down cut spiral bits are available in sizes ranging from ¼" to ½." We used bits from Infinity Tools for this story, both ½"-diameter. The Infinity part numbers are, up cut bit - 85-913, the down cut bit - 85-914. Visit the Infinity Tools web site - Click Here Have a comment about this story? - Email Me! Back to the Tips & Tricks List All NewWoodworker.com Custom Plan Sets, written, photographic and drawn materials are property of and copyright by NewWoodworker.com LLC 2001-2011. Materials may not be used in any way without written permission of the owner.
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