Your runout results are interesting. YMMV (your mileage may vary). My only concern about using a set screw for the average Joe, is that a cup point is used. The holding power would be excellent, but it will damage the spindle by biting into the spindle. A small circle is embossed in the steel. I would hate to do that to any spindle that I own. Choosing a brass or nylon or flat tipped set screw would prevent marking. Like you say, there are several solutions to this.
-Tim On Dec 8, 2017 8:15 AM, russ veinot <ru...@yknotwood.com> wrote: > > Tim, thanks for your comments > I agree the locking collar with a pin is an excellent idea and effective. I > said awhile back (I think on my face plate video) that a 1"-8 TPI nut cut > down to make narrow to fit on the head stock threads would be an adequate > solution. You pin idea on the locking nut would make that even better. As > always, there are many solutions to achieve the same result. I look for > practical and simple (and least expensive) solutions. my set screw solution > falls in that criteria, same as your solution (and Bill's). "Better" is in > the eye of the beholder (blue is the better color :>). > > the two statements that you and Bill both made seem to agree on is the set > screw would deflect the chuck when tightened and that the set screw might not > hold. This morning I got out my dial indicator and measured the run out of > the chuck with the chuck bottomed out on the head stock threads, with the > chuck loose on the threads, and with the set screw tightened down. the run > out was less than .001" difference in all 3 scenarios. As to the set screw > not holding, I said (in my video) it holds fine (believe it or not) and if > you are not sure, add a second or third set screw. I therefore stand by my > idea that my idea is a valid solution to the problem of timing the piece and > holding it on center. the cost of the set screw is cheap, consistent, and > easy to set up. What more can anyone ask for. > > Lastly, if you are turning any piece on centers (both ends of the piece on > center pins), the run out is determined by the center pins. The face plate > is design to hold the piece during turning, not true to center. if you turn > by bolting to the face plate only (no tail stock pin) the outer diameter run > out is an issue. the 4 pins are there to force the piece to turn with the > face plate rotation and not stay centered unless you are using the indexing > hub (no center pin). That has a 4 points of contact to hold the centering of > the head stock and run out can then become more of an issue. > > I hope I explained my point of view adequately :>), If after using this idea > for a while, I find it to not work as designed, I promise to let you know. > > Russ > > On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 3:33:48 PM UTC-6, russ veinot wrote: >> >> you can see my newest video on youtube >> at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g6wzIW1HvM >> >> it's about how to index and lock down the 4 jaw chuck to the head stock, >> just like the locking index hub. you can then use custom face plates for >> everything. >> >> all comments are welcome, >> Russ > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
