Thanks Tim
I have the single locking collar for the chuck, have tried that with the 
chuck and all is o.k. I am well aware of morse tapers having bought and 
sold quite a few metal working lathes. The best one of all of them was a 
VDF German made lathe See http://www.lathes.co.uk/
Cheers
Richard

On Sunday, August 4, 2019 at 6:11:43 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>
> No one mentioned to NOT hammer it in like you would a lathe.  In fact I 
> would  recommend  that you take it out frequently.   You remove the knob 
> from the end of the spindle and use the 1/4" Allen wrench to tap it out.  
>
> If you don't follow this advice, you will find the drive gets stuck inside 
> the socket and heavier means are necessary. 
>
> If you really don't take this advice, the two metals will become one and 
> they are seriously not for woodworkers to attempt getting them apart!
>
> So some of this was said tongue in check, but the double locking collar is 
> the definitive way to go.  Last I checked, legacy still had then in stock.  
> They are just two locking collars welded together. One has a smooth 1" bore 
> that tightens on the drive an the other collar I threaded 1-8 that tightens 
> on the spindle
>
> If you choose to use a chuck or a face plate you will need a smooth bore 
> split collar to make the accessories turn true.
>
> Hope that helps
> On Aug 3, 2019, at 2:41 AM, Richard Ellis <rchrd...@gmail.com 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>>
>> I have just put together my shortened 900 However I am not to impressed 
>> with the head stock 2 morse. Will there be a chance of it slipping if the 
>> tailstock dead center loosens and the pressure on the 2 morse eases . Do I 
>> need to locktite it or pin it somehow ??
>> Richard
>>
>>

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