Ps I forgot to mention I cut the straits with a scroll saw with metal cutting blades and having a pattern you wont cut the straits too wide and have the bolts turn on you when tightening
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of bulke...@mmnet.com.au Sent: Thursday, 23 April 2020 12:05 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Discussion of Triton router company & US & UK response to Wuhan/ChiCom virus I had already thought of that and did it but it doesn’t matter the screws hold it so tight you would have to crash and damage bits before it would move I always go just passed finger tight when I tighten the hand screws Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> > On Behalf Of MWF Sent: Thursday, 23 April 2020 11:31 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Subject: RE: Discussion of Triton router company & US & UK response to Wuhan/ChiCom virus Bill, For what it is worth - I understand you make the keyholes in the manner where you insert the screw heads into the hole portion and then rotate the router body about 3/8" to seat the screws into the "straights". If you go the route, I suggest you take into consideration which way the router's torque will want to twist the router once you engage/feed the wood into the bit - and put the "straights" on that side of the hole. That way if the hold down screw(s) were to loosen the motor's torque would keep the router in the straights and it would not drop out. Just a thought. Sounds like the other way you described - the router is sort of slid into the keyholes - with all of the keyholes' "straights" pointing/parallel in the same direction. Thanks for the explanation of how you do it. Mac _____ _____ -----Original Message----- >From: bulke...@mmnet.com.au <mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au> >Sent: Apr 22, 2020 9:11 PM >To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ><mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> >Subject: RE: Discussion of Triton router company & US & UK response to >Wuhan/ChiCom virus > >No I cut the keyhole shaped holes into the legacy I drilled the round holes >first then cut the strait part. I cut the keyholes one up and one down so you >twist the triton to mount it then tighten the hand screws. I Used the >baseplate to make a paper pattern to glue on the legacy to get the holes >drilled in the correct position then marked and cut the straits . or if you >wish and it fits do the key holes in the same direction. But before cutting >anything make sure when the router is plunged in full depth the handles clear >everything. > >Bill _____ _____ > >-----Original Message----- >From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ><mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Patrick Salter >Sent: Thursday, 23 April 2020 10:10 AM >To: Legacy Ornamental Mills >Subject: Re: Discussion of Triton router company & US & UK response to >Wuhan/ChiCom virus > >Ok, I’ve purchased and received my new Triton TRA001! >Now comes the next question. How did you attach yours to the legacy? Did you >use the baseplate mounting system? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com <mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com> . 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