Hello Dan
If you having problems there are a number of different ways to rope on the
Legacy.Like Bill said you can use spacer blocks to make your spacing between
ropes. that method worked verywell for me for a number of years.
Mike Pung made two video's on gear indexing and carriage travel indexing, Both
works very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjcFpO51upw&t=7s Roping/Carriage
travel.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHgzEKnON-o&t=4s Crank handle indexing.
Wish you luck.
Enjoy!
C.A.G.
On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 05:37:07 AM EDT, Dan Krager
<cdkra...@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks for all the encouraging tips, ideas, and warnings! I had some
beginner's luck on the first twist. I'm convinced that my simple idea will
work, so I'll document the result here. Might not be today. Got some loose
end projects to wrap up, i.e. carve the bowl.
DanK
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 10:27:07 PM UTC-4 aussiman wrote:
Curts jig he made does that I haven’t got one to see if it will work on the
revo
I index by undoing the leadscew nut and moving the saddle along in multiples of
¼ inch which is the threads per inch of the leadscrew
I use set up blocks for this so I don’t have to count threads then re-engage
the nut again.
Be warned too don’t trust the index drive centre of the revo the nut that holds
it can come slightly loose and it can be sloppy on the square
And you wont notice till your spirals or reeds and flutes are not all the same
I welded a leadscrew locking collar to the back of the drive centre
So I can clamp it to the headstock shaft as well as use the nut now it never
ever moves. You will rack your brain trying to work out what is wrong with your
spirals and indexes when this happens it drove me insane till I worked it out,
it was more noticeable on larger dia work I worked it out when I was doing my
big bolts and nuts on the revo , same as on the legacy you need to clamp the
index gear from moving when doing heavy indexed cuts . the legacys all legacys
have slop problems in some way once you know them you can overcome the problems,
Bill
From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com> On
Behalf Of Dan Krager
Sent: Tuesday, 26 July 2022 11:17 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: First LOM twist
I got side tracked from spoon bowl cutting (with Austrian spoon knives) by
going on to do the next twist on a smaller spoon (used up the stick). I guess
I didn't get the math right and buggered it up. It was too small to use the
regular drives on the spindle, so I used my little square drive that threads
on. It came loose on a reverse movement, further buggering up the twist. So I
will fix that by milling wrench flats on it so I can wrench tighten it. Now
that brings me to a BIG question.
WHY IN BLUE BLAZES DIDN'T THE PHANTOM ENGINEERS USE THE INDEXING FEATURE to do
twists? Couldn't they figure this out? Instead, it appears that you must go
through this Rube Goldberg procedure, do some math to get the right number of
starts taking into consideration the size of the cutter and the diameter of the
work.Then one must break the sync by moving the carriage. This risky
uncontrolled procedure severely limits the diameters, cutters, and patterns in
most cases. The only use for the index is to do lateral cuts without syncing to
the drive spur. The solution appears to be so simple that even I will figure it
out and do it.
The basic principle of LOM is that the sync between rotation and lateral travel
is maintained by the gear train. To move to the next start requires breaking
that sync somehow. And I want to move to the next start in a mechanically
controlled manner using an index (dividing) plate to keep it simple. It would
also seem reasonable to have different plates available or a plate with all the
commonly used factors like 2,3,4,5,6,8,9,10,12. Putting fine divisions on
approximates checkering and that many sync breaks leads to trouble. Unless
mechanically controlled. Using a direct index plate eliminates the math and
other limitations.
So I'm looking for the simplest, cheapest and most reliable solution. Me
thinks such a solution will focus on the connection between the "standard index
gear" and the drive spur shaft. Right now the SIG is screwed onto the outboard
end of the drive spur shaft and locked to it by a square on the shaft
penetrating the SIG. If the SIG were moved outboard onto a free wheeling
arrangement essentially extending the shaft a bit, then a flat finger placed
onto the drive square, and that assembly secured to the outboard end, one could
break and re-establish the sync at will mechanically. The SIG would have moved
leftward 1/8" displaced by the 1/8" thick finger that is locked onto the drive
spur shaft where the gear used to be. The SiG would be fitted with a bushing to
allow it to freewheel to the immediate left of the drive square. Now the
finger is pointed and the point bent 90° to engage the holes in the SIG with
its 24 holes (until a better deal is reached).
So the setup starts out the same, but one notes which hole the finger is in.
Make the cut. Spring the finger out of the hole and rotate the spur (and work)
to the next index location. The SIG remains stationary while the spur shaft
turns controlled by the finger moving to the next index, thus breaking the sync
for a moment and re-establishing sync at the next index. Next cut. Rinse and
repeat.
No further changes need be made because there is enough "slop" in the gear
alignment to allow a 1/8" shift of the SiG without any trouble. This totally
eliminates any math and allows a predictable number of starts on any diameter.
One might adjust depth of cut, size of cutter, or make other adjustments at
will without affecting the basic index positioning. This also works for the
rotary table. Changing out the SIG to different ratios will have to be
considered, too. Perhaps instead of a finger, another 24 hole plate that is
small enough to fit within the smallest gear is used. Still ...
How simple is that?
DanK
P.S. YOU BET IMMA DO IT.
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 5:03:22 PM UTC-4 aussiman wrote:
On the contrary its very much to look at very nice work Dan cant wait to see
the bowl
Bill
From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com> On
Behalf Of Dan Krager
Sent: Tuesday, 26 July 2022 2:49 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: First LOM twist
Hi guys. I'm still riding a high of successfully cutting my first involute
spur gear for one of my machines.
So, riding that high, I decided to do some wood turnng. Utensils came to mind,
so very soon a couple of spoon blanks were on the LOM for another first...the
first twists cut on the REVO. Used a straight 1/2" up cut spiral bit against
the side. Six starts. Not much to look at for design and the handle is much to
large, but the pear wood cuts beautifully. Another smaller spoon is on its
way.
Now to carve the bowl. This stuff is HARD.
DanK
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