Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 04:08:47 -0800 (PST)
From: John Musielewicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [LIB] Alas, L100 Wasn't Reliable At 266MHz
You are correct in that you need to use thermal
grease. You also need to lift the keyboard up to let
air flow a little better. Did you make sure to replace
the copper conducter when you took it out?
--- John Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 09:52:51 -0600
> From: John Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Alas, L100 Wasn't Reliable At 266MHz
>
> I went ahead and overclocked my L100 using a
> conductive pen as
> mentioned in the earlier post. The pen worked fine,
> in the sense that
> the L100 booted up and functioned normally after the
> modification.
>
> Unfortunately the overclocked machine was not
> reliable. It would lock
> up (screen looks normal but no response to keyboard
> or mouse, have to
> restart) after appx 20 minute of running. The heat
> shield under the
> keyboard got hot - not too hot to touch, but too hot
> to keep your
> fingers pressed to it for more than 10 secs. I
> restarted the Lib
> several times with the same result. It even locked
> up with the
> keyboard lifted up, the upper PC card slot empty,
> and no application
> running. This is using Win XP Pro with a 20GB
> harddrive and a Linksys
> wireless card.
>
> I examined the drawn trace under a loupe and it
> looks fine - is
> connecting the two points, no apparent
> deterioriation due to heat etc.
>
> So, I reversed the mod and now the Lib is running
> perfectly. I've sort
> of convinced myself that it really wasn't much
> faster at 266MHz anyway,
> although to be honest it did feel peppier during the
> short period that
> I actually got to use it overclocked. I am now
> going through Windows,
> disabling services and so on, to get a bit of extra
> speed from that
> source.
>
> Bummer. I've read that 90% of L100s will run well
> at 266MHz,
> apparently I'm in the bottom decile. Someday I may
> try 200MHz using
> CPUIdle and thermal grease. But I'm not hopeful of
> success. It was
> only 68F in the house last night when the
> overclocked Lib was locking
> up while merely idling, and I want the machine to be
> reliable running
> any application(s), sitting in the sun in 100F
> ambient, with the drive
> spinning and both PC card slots working.
>
> Oh well, it was worth a try and only took 15
> minutes. By the way, it
> seems like all or most of the English language
> webpages showing how to
> disassemble a L100 have gone 404, so I thought I'd
> post the procedure I
> used here, in case it is ever useful for someone:
>
> LIBRETTO L100 DISASSEMBLY TO OVERCLOCK:
>
> 1. Remove battery and unplug Libretto from power.
>
> 2. Turn Libretto upside down. Remove lower case half
> (remove 7 long
> screws from underside of Libretto, pull sliding
> "handle" of the hard
> drive out a bit, carefully separate lower case from
> upper, note tabs on
> either side of battery compartment need to be gently
> separated).
>
> 3. Note location of PC card assembly and the 4
> screws that hold it down
> (from the underside, you see the ends of the screws,
> not the heads).
>
> 4. Turn Libretto right-side up. Remove the plastic
> strip between the
> keyboard and screen (fingernail-pry up the right
> end, lift it out,
> unhook the left end). Lift up the keyboard (gently
> lift the side
> closest to the keyboard, careful not to stress the
> ribbon cable). While
> keeping the keyboard raised, detach the right and
> left keyboard
> retaining straps (remove short screws fastening them
> to the case, slip
> strap ends from slots). Remove shiny metal heat
> shield (it was held
> down by those same screws).
>
> 5. The screen and upper case half should now be
> loose from the
> motherboard of the machine, although still connected
> by the display
> cable (right upper corner of the keyboard area) and
> another cable
> (screen power? left upper corner of the keyboard
> area). The keyboard is
> still connected to the motherboard by its ribbon
> cable. So you haven't
> actually disconnected anything, but you have gotten
> access to the
> screws under the heat shield and the screen.
>
> 6. Now remember where the PC card assembly mounting
> screws were
> located, find their heads, and remove them (over by
> the right-hand side
> of the machine, two by the edge of the keyboard
> closest to you, two
> under the screen).
>
> 7. Now close the screen (put the keyboard back in
> place, be careful not
> to pinch anything) and turn the Libretto upside down
> again. Remove the
> PC card assembly (verify the four screws are
> missing, then pull up at
> the end closest to the middle of the machine). Lift
> up the black
> plastic sheet covering the motherboard (use tape to
> hold it out of the
> way).
>
> 8. Find the points you need to solder and do the
> job.
>
> 9. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Verify
> that everything is
> secure before you close up the Libretto (check LCD
> display and power
> cables, memory card, keyboard cable, CMOS battery in
> its plastic
> cover). You should have two short screws for the
> keyboard straps, four
> long screws for the PC card assembly, and seven long
> screws for the
> lower case half.
>
> 10. If the case halves aren't meeting on the
> left-hand side (near the
> hard drive), check that the hard drive handle is
> pulled out, then push
> it back before inserting screws. If the case halves
> aren't meeting at
> the back (by the audio in/out jacks) check that the
> PC card eject
> levers and the corresponding levers on the PC card
> assembly are not
> interfering with each other.
>
>
>
>
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