I am involved in a major project on the boat involving moving the house
bank (adjacent to the previously discussed ER vent), attaching it securely
to the vessel (including rollover security), sealing the battery box and
venting overboard, relocating the Trace, and moving all the involved
wiring.  

I will attempt to re-calibrate the AH meter at that time.

The manual for the AH meter stated that the meter will automatically zero
itself when it sensed the battery was fully charged.  Perhaps the fact that
I had some bad cells threw it off.  In the future I will be a good boy and
record the AH meter reading whenever I do hydrometer measurements to get a
written correlation.

Thanks for all the great info, insight and suggestions.

Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek
30 07.695N 081 38.484W


> REPLY
> Link 10 and other battery meters will accumulate phantom amp hours as a
> result of  the small trickle charge going into the battery to replace that
> lost by self discharge. Depending on whether any of the trickle charge is
> also  used up as heat due to internal cell resistance this can amount to
> more than you would expect.
> Because this internal self discharge does not exit the battery, the
> battery meter does not see a reverse current flow leaving the battery.
> Therefore this loss is not deducted from the calculated total. The meter
> thinks the trickle charge is still stored in the battery.
> The original Link 10  user manual did in fact mention the need to
> periodically "zero" the counter to erase this phantom count and reset to
> the preset value.
>
>


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