Great advice, as usual from your experiences, Norm! Thanks!

While I haven't had any of these problems - either on the old boat or this new 
one - I like the concept since 1) my Yanmar panel just has idiot lights for 
engine temp, and 2) there isn't any "control panel" for the genset.  I know the 
genset has an overheat thermocoupler or something on it which makes it shut 
down above a certain temp so I'm good there.  But I like the idea of the 
redundancy of installing those thermoswitches on the exhaust hoses for the 
engine and genset. At least I'd have an indication of the beginnings of an 
overheat situation before the Yanmar idiot light and alarm kick in.

The additional strainer downstream of the raw water pump also looks like a 
simple install and would be another way to see what's going on.....


Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY

All outgoing mail protected by VIPRE A/V


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: [email protected] 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 10:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Transmission cooling mind bender



  When remaking your main engine cooling system I suggest installing a water 
strainer just downstream of the raw water pump.  Connect it so that the water 
enters between the transparent housing and the strainer so you can see any 
debris in collected the strainer.

  This will catch impeller bits before they lodge in the heat exchanger or 
riser water injection nozzle.  You will then be able to see when it is time to 
change the impeller and will not have to clean out rubber bits downstream.  

  Doing this will save a great amount of work, thus greatly reducing the time 
required to recover from a blown impeller, a Good Thing especially if one is 
underway.  (Trust me... )

  While you are at it install a thermoswitch on the rubber main engine exhaust 
hose.  The exhaust hose is the first thing to get overheated when you loose 
seawater flow.  The main engine block has so much thermal inertia that it takes 
a while for it to overheat so the hose may be destroyed (the inner liner cooks 
and comes loose) before you are aware of a problem.  (Don't ask me how I 
know...)

  It is a normally open switch, closing at 120 deg F, obtainable at a HVAC 
supply.  This switch is about a inch in diameter with two tabs to attach to a 
duct and two 1/4" quick connect terminals.  I hold it on the hose with a spring 
around the hose hooked to the holes in the two tabs.

  Do you have alarms on your engine?  I recommend Murphy Gauges; these are 
gauges with an adjustable contact to feed an alarm (or shutdown on a genset) 
circuit.   I have one for oil pressure and one for coolant temp.


  Norm
  S/V Bandersnatch
  Lying Julington Creek FL


    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: JohnChristensen 
    To: [email protected]
    Sent: 1/27/2010 10:32:54 AM 
    Subject: [Liveaboard] Transmission cooling mind bender


    Hi everybody

     

    I just put in a a new transmission.  My engine is a Volvoi MD17C raw water 
cooled the transmission is a MSB .  I have however come up with a mindbending 
issue and I would appreciate your input.

     

    When I cleaned out the other transmission I found a old piece of impeller, 
almost half a wing stuck in one of the elbows. This surprised me as the 
transmission water to cool it  is before the pump and the engine. I suspect 
that the transmission cooling has been set up differently when the previous 
owner had the boat

     

    This brings up the point of what is the right order. As it is I have it set 
up like this

     

    Seacock - Strainer- Water pump -engine- riser-exhaust

     

    I had a lot of scale in the old transmission and considering a piece of 
impeller as well it is a wonder how water came through it.

     

    I am considering a different order, actually 2 different ways.

     

    1.Seacock- Strainer- Water  pump - Transmission - Engine- Riser- Exhaust

     

    Either that or 

     

    2 . Seacock- Strainer - Water pump - T -  (one end of the T to the engine 
the other to the Transmission) Riser and T to transmission  for the exhaust  

     

    This would eliminate scale build up in the transmission restricting cooling 
of the engine. 

     

    In the manual the water is routed from the seacock to the transmission then 
the pump, but that seems wrong, what do you think

     

    Regards John

     

     

       

     



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