I find that depressing the string more or less, especially next to the fret does indeed alter the pitch significantly. This can indeed be used to change temperament temporarily. It is also not just the pitch that is important but also the fact that one can make the pitch to increase (or decrease for that matter) after the note is plucked thereby intensifying the effect. This can all be exaggerated by pulling or pushing the string in the direction of the bridge or the nut.
In addition this may be felt more than it can be heard or measured.

Lex van Sante

Op 19 mrt 2009, om 08:57 heeft Martyn Hodgson het volgende geschreven:



  I am extremely sceptical about this claim, if only for the
insignificant change in pitch which would be achieved by an additional depression of say 0.5mm (ie from stopping the string without bottoming
  to the fingerboard and fully depressed) . By way of an example: the
increase in string length of a 64cm string depressed at half its length
  by 0.5mm is only about 0.0008mm! (Pythagorus theorem: square root of
  [320x320+0.5x0.5]) ie an increase of a mere 0.000125% ..............
  can any human ear detect this?

  MH
  --- On Wed, 18/3/09, damian dlugolecki <dam...@teleport.com> wrote:

    From: damian dlugolecki <dam...@teleport.com>
    Subject: [LUTE] Re: Hi guys, nylon frets...
    To: "Martyn Hodgson" <hodgsonmar...@yahoo.co.uk>,
    lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
    Date: Wednesday, 18 March, 2009, 5:17 PM

     One touches the strings with much less pressure than say, the
  guitar.
     There is no need to push the string down so that it touches the
     fingerboard.  I find that I can adjust my touch to compensate for
  notes
     that with more pressure, would sound sharp.  When I first
  encountered
the need to fret my lute with thicker frets I was a bit alarmed as
     well, but believe me, playing a lute with thicker frets has no
disadvantages whatever. I consulted with the maker, Andy Rutherford
  at
this time and he agreed that the lute played and sounded beautifully and did not want to tamper with nut any more than what he had done.
  So
I joined this thread to counter the notion that somehow large frets
  are
     a bad thing.
     DD
Not really true that thicker frets have 'no drawback' - the use of thinner frets (but still graduated by the same amount from lowest to
     highest) allows the lute to be set more 'fine' than with thicker
  frets
ie the distance required to depress the string to the fingerboard is less. Conversely, if one so desired, the use of even thicker frets
  (but
still with the same amount of overall graduation) would result in a
     very significant increase in the distance required to depress a
  string
     and concomitant difficulties of execution.
     MH
     --- On Wed, 18/3/09, damian dlugolecki <[1]dam...@teleport.com>
  wrote:
       From: damian dlugolecki <[2]dam...@teleport.com>
       Subject: [LUTE] Re: Hi guys, nylon frets...
       To: "Martyn Hodgson" <[3]hodgsonmar...@yahoo.co.uk>,
       [4]l...@cs.dartmouth.edu
       Date: Wednesday, 18 March, 2009, 3:47 AM
The projection of the string is determined by the height of the
  nut
     and
the holes in the bridge. If the neck has a set or slight warp,
     thicker
frets will be called for and that thickness will be determined by
     the
        projection of the strings.
        I used to use much thinner frets but as Dan Winheld has noted,
  there
     is
        no drawback whatever to using thicker frets.
        Cordially,
        Damian
Why don't you try a much thinner 9th fret (say 0.50mm) which not
     only
        fits with Dowland's fretting advice (the principal historic
  source
     of
        fret sizes) but would also enable you to have smaller lower
  frets,
     say
        down to 0.90mm and thereby set the lute 'fine'?
        MH
        --- On Tue, 17/3/09, damian dlugolecki
  <[1][1][5]dam...@teleport.com>
     wrote:
          From: damian dlugolecki <[2][2][6]dam...@teleport.com>
          Subject: [LUTE] Re: Hi guys, nylon frets...
          To: "Daniel Winheld" <[3][7]dwinh...@comcast.net>,
     [4][8]l...@cs.dartmouth.edu
          Date: Tuesday, 17 March, 2009, 3:52 AM
"Using the thinnest frets that you can get away with" is a basic premise for fretting, but there are many lutes where the neck has
     set
        (but hopefully not twisted)
        where heavy frets are called for.  My baroque lute represents
  just
     such
        an instance where everything is fine except that much thicker
  frets
     are
        called for and more
        care in selecting sizes to taper up to the 10th fret.  Here is
  the
     fret
        scheme for my lute:
        frets
        1,2,3   1.25 mm
        4,5       1.20 "
        6          1.10 "
        7          1.05 "
        8          1.00 "
        9           .95  "
        10         .85  "
        So if you find you need heavier frets, do not be alarmed.  My
  lute
plays beautifully, there is no undue wear on the strings on the
     finger
        board,
and everything is in tune. You may have to invest in some fret
  gut,
        but like tuning, it's part of the job.
        Damian
        Please visit my web site at www.damianstrings.com
        ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Winheld"
        <[3][5][9]dwinh...@comcast.net>
        To: <[4][6][10]l...@cs.dartmouth.edu>
        Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 11:57 AM
        Subject: [LUTE] Re: Hi guys, nylon frets...
Dana- this seems like excellent advice & cautions in regard to
     nylon
frets. In line with that, I would also advise noting what the
  neck
and fingerboard are made of- ebony fingerboard with ebony
  veneered
neck would seem to be best; in any case the hardest, toughest
     woods
possible would be in order.
Anything else, especially if the lute is of some value, could
  be
counter productive so why not go with the easier, safer, and in
     any
case better sounding traditional alternative?

That said, I would also advise the thinnest frets that you
  could
     get
away with. Dowland's advice seems appropriate here; he starts
  with
4th course for the first two frets (.85 - .90 mm), next two of
  3rd
course size, (.70-ish) 5th & 6th fret, 2nd course; and the rest
trebles.

Also single frets would be best; while the traditional doubles
  are
rarely used by modern lutenists anyway, only gut doubles will
  "bed
down" properly for cleanest sound. Attempting to get enough
     tension
for tightness, and for the fret to lie flat near the
  fingerboard
edges at the first fret position with 1.15 nylon would take two
gorillas with vice grip pliers. And a titanium neck with carbon
fingerboard.

Dan


Nylon can be made to work, but it even more of a pain in the
        proverbial
than gut.  It is stronger than most neck woods and will leave
  an
indentation; some like that, it marks where the fret goes.
  Others
        dislike
it for the same reason, get it wrong and you are stuck.  The
     knots
        are
prickly, and burning them makes noxious smoke which you really
        shouldnt
inhale.

Nylon is probably longer lasting than gut, but not forever, I
     have
        had
nylon frets break.

I switched to gut a long time ago and far prefer it.

The first fret is particularly challenging as you have so
  little
        room
above it to use in stretching the knot tighter; I always found
        pliers
necesary on the first fret; leave the ends long enough that
  you
     can
        grip
away from the knot, then wrap a length around the jaws, you
  dont
        want to
be squashing the nylon to get a grip anywhere near the knot.
--
Dana Emery

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