Sorry folks for all the chatter on this. This is my last email on this. If I
find a fix I'll share. I haven't been using the T200s all that long, but
learned alot. I also learned that the earlier models did in fact have jumpers
and when you opened the little door you saw them. Later models you only see the
shield when opening the door, and I found the service manual; it told me I was
wrong about the default settings of the switches; I thought they were off, but
the default is on, so I changed the switches to ON (apparently a previous owner
changed them all to OFF), and it still didn't help. So I'll keep reading the
service manual for hopefully more insight, but I may determine it's some
hardware issue with the drive that I may need parts to repair. Who knows what
has been done to this drive over the 28 + years.
Thanks again for your help.Spencer
On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 06:09:49 PM EST, Spencer
<spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Found nothing of value when I looked again. I found that on some earlier
models (so it appears) it had a physical dip block, but on later models it had
four jumpers on SW1 but were soldered (or etched in the board) at the factory
and the bottom part of the four switches showed the contacts as open. It looks
like they should be off, but please set me straight if my assumption is wrong.
In any event still the "drive not ready" error still there ;-(. I'll see if I
can find a service manual unless any of you have one you wouldn't mind sending
me.
Thanks for your help!
On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 04:57:18 PM EST, Spencer
<spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and all
are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little door shows
just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please let me know.
Something I did find was the power supply has a white connector that plugs into
a board with the fuse and it was some pulled out from one side but not all the
way. Actually don't know if I pulled it out when I opened it or not. Btw the 1A
fuse is good. Everything looks good. Don't see any popped/leaking caps or
broken solder joints, but I'll try it again and share what I find.
Thanks
On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis
<jho...@pobox.com> wrote:
On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow <gswal...@mchsi.com> wrote:
Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had.
Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never had
to change anything so never opened it before now.
And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP (which
may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The TPDD-1 is
actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip switches, but
defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine devices are locked to.
So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2
cannot.
-- John.
