If you don't mind spending a few bucks, maybe Jeff Birt can look at it for you. On the other hand, there are a few better storage options available these days ..
m On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 10:47 PM Spencer <spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote: > Sorry folks for all the chatter on this. This is my last email on this. If > I find a fix I'll share. I haven't been using the T200s all that long, but > learned alot. I also learned that the earlier models did in fact have > jumpers and when you opened the little door you saw them. Later models you > only see the shield when opening the door, and I found the service manual; > it told me I was wrong about the default settings of the switches; I > thought they were off, but the default is on, so I changed the switches to > ON (apparently a previous owner changed them all to OFF), and it still > didn't help. So I'll keep reading the service manual for hopefully more > insight, but I may determine it's some hardware issue with the drive that I > may need parts to repair. Who knows what has been done to this drive over > the 28 + years. > > Thanks again for your help. > Spencer > > On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 06:09:49 PM EST, Spencer < > spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Found nothing of value when I looked again. I found that on some earlier > models (so it appears) it had a physical dip block, but on later models it > had four jumpers on SW1 but were soldered (or etched in the board) at the > factory and the bottom part of the four switches showed the contacts as > open. It looks like they should be off, but please set me straight if my > assumption is wrong. In any event still the "drive not ready" error still > there ;-(. I'll see if I can find a service manual unless any of you have > one you wouldn't mind sending me. > > Thanks for your help! > > On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 04:57:18 PM EST, Spencer < > spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and all > are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little door > shows just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please let me > know. Something I did find was the power supply has a white connector that > plugs into a board with the fuse and it was some pulled out from one side > but not all the way. Actually don't know if I pulled it out when I opened > it or not. Btw the 1A fuse is good. Everything looks good. Don't see any > popped/leaking caps or broken solder joints, but I'll try it again and > share what I find. > > Thanks > > On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis < > jho...@pobox.com> wrote: > > > > > On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow <gswal...@mchsi.com> wrote: > > Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had. > Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never > had to change anything so never opened it before now. > > > And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP > (which may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The > TPDD-1 is actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip > switches, but defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine > devices are locked to. So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother > Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2 cannot. > > -- John. >
