Should be no problem. I wasn't sure how best to do a case yet so that's why it has holes in the corners. One basic option is just a cover on the out side held on your only by glue or mounting tape, and using the holes for registration or alignment, and maybe also for glue, or just friction, make the pin large enough to fit tightly. But the problem there is the pin would be weak if FDM printed. It would break right off because of layer lines.
The cover would be flush with the perimeter of the PCB, not wrapping around it. Or there is enough space between the PCB and the computer to get case material all the way around, and still not interfere with the printer or serial ports either. For that, for simplicity I was thinking of a single piece that slides over from the top and uses the holes to snap in place with little bumps inside. This would need to be printed vertically so that the which might not look the best or be the easiest to print successfully, but will make the layer lines perpendicular to the PCB, the lines would make solid loops around the PCB and the front side will not break apart from the back side. Or maybe a 2 piece clam shell where each half is like the front-only piece I described above. Each side would have little bumps to register in the holes but not go all the way through. The problem with the glued parts is it complicates the battery. The part either needs to be removable to expose the battery, or it needs some kind of opening, including some way to eject the battery. The one-piece idea could be totally enclosed and you access the battery by just sliding the entire cover back off. It would use only the detents to hold itself in place no glue or mounting tape. I haven't really tried to figure out a case yet, these are just the hazy pre-ideas. The holes might possibly be usable with M2 or M2.5 screws too but honestly I figured everything would be a bit too small for screws. They make screws that small but there isn't much material to screw *into*. Another possibility I though I'd try is maybe just the outside cover with M3 screws to bite into the PCB itself. But the PCB is so thin that that would only be a couple threads and then the screw would poke out the back, and I don't want any sharp pokies on the back. Maybe yet another idea is the one-piece slide over cover, with two screws at the top that all they do is retain the cover acting as pins, instead of relying on bumps acting as detents in the holes, since those might simply grind away after a few cycles. bkw On Tue, Sep 12, 2023, 12:40 PM Ben Wiley Sittler <bsittl...@gmail.com> wrote: > That's great work! Is there enough clearance around the modern version > that a 3d-printed case could fit? > > On Tue, Sep 12, 2023, 01:47 Brian K. White <b.kenyo...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> >> The unverified schematic I arrived at from beeping out an original NODE >> DATAPAC is now verified. >> >> Based on that best guess original schematic I made a new schematic that >> uses 1 256k sram instead of 8 32k sram, but otherwise replicates the >> original circuit with the way the binary counters and bus latch works. >> >> And the new device works! >> >> https://github.com/bkw777/NODE_DATAPAC#minindp >> >> This is kind of a pointless device today because in most cases a >> Backpack is more useful and practical. >> >> But here are a few distinguishing points: >> * The driver software is only 1.4k on a 100, 1.2k on a 200, vs ts-dos >> over 5k. Teeny is only 0.75k but lacks features (can't format a disk or >> even list the directory) >> * The DATAPAC or MiniNDP uses the system bus, leaving the serial port >> available for other use. >> >> -- >> bkw >> >
