that's because older 10bt devices were made before the standard came out
telling them how to communicate their capabilities with
switches/routers.  some switches/routers do have switches or software
settings to force the lower  speed (though they really should assume it
when a "dumb" device talks to them, or they could "auto sense" the same
way some products previously determined the baud rate of serial devices.
 best in that case is to use a 10bt hub  with one or more 100bt ports or
one that's new enough to communicate it's capabilities to another
switch/router used for the 100bt parts of  your network.  you can also
sometimes "trick" newer routers/switches by connecting another device
that's 10bt but new enough to communicate with the switch/hub, this lets
the speed for that port get set  for 10bt, then you unplug the new
device and plug in the old one and your set at least until a
powerfailure or reset of the router/switch (some retain settings 
without power, but some  may not).

Ian Sidle wrote:
> 
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
> 
> John Bruner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said...
> "...If you know how to configure a hub, you know how to configure a switch.
> That much is transparent. Switches are for segregating network traffic, so
> you shouldn't see any performance change with only two devices...."
> 
> Yes. Also, I have had trouble old devices (mainly one's that are 10 base-t
> only) have problems conning to the network with an 10/100 switch at all. An
> switch normally costs more then an hub also. It wouldn't really be worth it
> at all unless
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