yeah i will give u that sum ppl run them under 13 inch rims but they are a
tight fit and like u have modified ur rim which most ppl are too lazy or not
knowlegable enuff to do but for an easy fit why not just get 14s there heaps
of cheap 14 inch sets out there
>From: Ashley Bryce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: Fw: Brake conversions
>Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 08:43:42 +0930
>
>I ran 240k Struts with 13" Mags, not stock steel rims. To get the mags to
>fit we grinded down the top and bottom edge a few thou. The amount ground
>off was not providing any strength, just a little extra cooling. These
>struts have been working for around three years doing most of the rallys in
>SA.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: FJ MAN [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent: Tuesday, 2 May 2000 0:18
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Fw: Brake conversions
>
>
>
>yep thats rught 240k does need 14 inch rims and yeah they are bloody good i
>have em and im very happy with em
>
> >From: "Derek Franklin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: Fw: Brake conversions
> >Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 14:20:49 +0950
> >
> >Daniel,
> >
> >the 200B conversion uses the 200B struts from the strut cartridge down.
>You
> >can use the springs you already have and the strut tops ( may need spring
> >compressors
> >).
> >The 200B struts using the 1600 springs will lower the car between 1/2"
>and
> >1&1/2"
> >depending on the current strut ( measure the tube between the lower
>spring
> >seat
> >and the stub-axle assembly to see how much ).
> >The rotor is solid, 10" ( stock is 9" ) diameter, thicker and the
>calipers
> >are
> >single piston semi-floating calipers, like most modern production car
> >calipers
> >( eg commodore ).
> >Booster is a matter of personal taste - getting the master cylinder and
> >bias
> >valve set up is the key. Anyone got tips on a master cylinder for this
> >conversion
> >?
> >FWIW, I'm using my wagon's stock ( 7/8" ) tandem master with the VL Turbo
> >calipers
> >- not perfect but not bad either.
> >
> >There's a 240K twin piston 10.5" brake setup that sounds pretty damn good
> >for
> >a 1600, but may not work with 13" rims....anyone ?
> >
> >DBA may sell cross-drilled rotors for either of these, just check with a
> >catalogue
> >or supplier.
> >
> >Hope that helps you out, good luck !
> >DF
> >
> > >I was checking out the 200B brake conversion on the adelaide 1600 club
>=
> > >webpage and wondered what struts are required? Can you use the 1600 =
> > >struts or do you have to have the 200B struts. If the 200B struts are
>a
> >=
> >
> > >requirement, can 1600 springs be adapted to them(my lowered springs are
>=
> > >only two months old) Is the rotor solid, cross drilled or ventilated?
>=
> > >Is it a single, double or four(probably not) piston caliper? Is the =
> > >200B booster a strict requirement or would a 180B booster(which I =
> > >already have) or even the 1600 booster be fine for this configuration?
>I
> >=
> >
> > >already have a set of 240K struts and brakes lying around but I'm =
> > >wondering if the 200B conversion would be far more worthwile? I would
>=
> > >consider the 200B conversion if the advantages over the 240K
>conversion.
> >=
> >
> > > Sorry for all the questions but unfortunately the VL commdore(awesome
>=
> > >brake setup though) option is out 'cause I have 13 inch rims, just =
> > >purchased and don't have the money or need to be buying new ones in the
>=
> > >forseeable future.
> >
>
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>
>
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