Pete you could try my 200B master cylinder if you really wanted to. I want to
take it off and do some changes to it anyway - it is mounted really 'dumb'.
Have you looked into one of those Patrol rear adjusting valves? I believe they
were fitted to the back of commercials or something to stop the rears locking
up under the different weights of full tray or not. Someone else could elaborate!
I seem to remember someone being required by an engineer to fit on of these
to a 1600?
Someone help me here!!! :)
zac
>
>Mick,
>
>I'm running Mazda RX7 4 pots on the front + 200B booster + '94 180SX master
>cylinder + Wilwood adjustable bias valve. I've currently got the valve
>adjusted to give me maximum bias to the front. Weird hey! I thought with the
>4 pots I'd always have too much bias to the front, but I'm always having
>trouble locking up the back. No fun.
>
>I fear my problem is the 180SX master cylinder. I wanted to use it because
>it has a 15/16 bore, it fits up to the 200B booster, gives great pedal feel
>and I just happened to have it lying in the shed. Unfortunately it has
>inbuilt proportioning, which is impossible to bloody well get apart. Not
>happy! So I've kinda got the inbuilt proportioning + my external adjustable
>valve, which is plainly not working. I'm going to have to go to a plain
>master cylinder with external proportioning. But I want 15/16" or 1" that
>will fit up to a 200B booster. Any ideas??
>
>PL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
> Sent: Saturday, 3 December 1994 23:04
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: r31 rear pads/Bias
>
>
> Pete
> One of the reasons I use the commonwhore discs and calipers is that I
>could never get the bias right with the r31 rears. I just assumed it was
>because i used the 4 spots on the front. What are u running on the front?
>Terry seems to be happy with the bias on his.... The best feature of the r31
>rears is the cable operated handbrake which means you can keep it legal
>(not like mine)
> BTW I was running a 180B master cyl and booster.
> Also I have found that having the Tilton bias balance bar is quite
>interesting. When changing from a dirt circuit to a bitumen circuit I am
>winding the adjustor knob about 4 to 5 turns which is quite a bit so i
>guess if u are experiencing different road surfaces there will be times when
>the bias is right and other times when it will be wrong (maybe its never
>right?). I am extremely happy with my brakes now and I reckon the attraction
>for the rear of 4WD's is a thing of the past hehe
> just some thoughts
> cheers
> Mick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pete & Kath Liebig
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 5:25 PM
> Subject: RE: r31 rear pads
>
>
> Terry,
>
> I have changed mine about 3 times now and I've got it sorted. It seems
>the longer the calipers have gone without a pad change, the harder it is to
>get the pistons back. I played around with pad materials a bit, so I did a
>few changes in quick succession.
>
> When I first got mine I was so pissed off with them that I pulled them
>apart to suss out how the hell they're supposed to work! Now I know. It's
>amazing how hard you can do up the G clamp without those pistons moving one
>bit! This also allowed me to check everything and clean them up thoroughly.
>Still haven't got my bloody bias sorted...
>
> PL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Thursday, 2 November 2000 0:03
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: r31 rear pads
>
>
> Pete,
> I was just thinking (dangerous I know) but I hope I never have a
>mandatory pad change with the R31's - it would be quicker to change the
>calliper.
>
> terry
>
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