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You should remove your front guards and check
around the area that the guard covers.
Taking the guard off requires removal of two 12mm
bolts, top and bottom at rear (the top one requires the door to be
open whilst removing it), plus a number of 10mm bolts along the top inside
and down the front behind the light surround, plus two inside the wheel
arch joining the guard to the front stone tray. Almost invariably some of
these bolts will be rusted solid and break when you try to extract them
If none break, you own a very well cared for car, and you have done a
brilliant job of thread lubrication and careful extraction!
The 12mm bolted to a captive nut inside the sill
panel is usually the worst, as the water in the sill rusts its
thread. If you can extract this bolt with out destroying part of the
sill or breaking the bolt, its a good sign the sill is pretty good. I
removed one recently by hand, after initially loosening it by socket - I cant
ever remember doing that previously.
When the guard is removed you can drill out
and retap any broken bolts to enable refitting of the guard.
You are then able to evaluate how much rust you are
looking at on the front footwell, inner guard (unusual, except where the rubber
seal sits between it and the guard) and the sill panel. This is when you
talk to your panel fabricating friend about replacement surgery, including
replacing the captive nut if necessary, or bog it up, paint over with
body deadener and put on the for sale sign.
The front of the sill is not a simple piece to
mould but not impossible for a good panel fabricator. If the rest of the
car is OK, its worth repairing the sills.
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- Rust in Sills Richard Webb
- Re: Rust in Sills Andrew Greenbury
- Re: Rust in Sills Richard Clough
- Re: Rust in Sills Richard Webb
