BFH is relative. For most automotive work it is a 2-4 lb hammer on a short
handle. My brother keeps a 10 lb on about a 15 inch handle. Now that is
truly a BFH. For construction a BFH is 10 lb or more. Most people use an
8 pounder, but a 10 pounder speaks with more authority, and imho, is the
starting place for a construction BFH. it is used to adjust studs into
place, or a whole wall into place, or to seat T&G subfloor. In the past
few weeks I have been driving 2x4 stakes into dry clay for concrete forms
with a 16 lb post mall. It is a cast iron antique, and the guys call it
the circus hammer. It will drive a 2x4stake 1/4 inch per blow in hard clay
where the 10 pounder mostly just bounces. Kinda like a .45 versus a .38
special. It speaks with authority.
In short, a BFH ain't your wife's 12 oz claw hammer from one of those
homeowner 46 piece tool kits. My automotive bfh is a 3 pounder on an 8
inch handle. My construction BFH is a 10 pounder. when the automotive one
won't work, i get out the 10 pounder, or get a longer pipe to put on the
handle of the wrench, or both.
At 04:59 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
Wow.
I really would like a 22mm socket to put on my breaker
bar...somethings just can't be simple. Even Snap On
only sells metric L-allen wrenches up to 19mm. Urgh.
Will report on how it goes. BFH, never heard that one
before, but I got it right away. Might be easier to
slowly jack it into to opening with my Toyota jack
(very useful b/c of the slot in it).
Thanks for the advice.
Christopher
--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you have to buy a wrench, i'd buy the short one
> and put a 3 foot pipe on
> it. The long one will need a pipe extension anyway.
> Since it is
> something rarely seen, putting a pipe wrench on it
> will cause scars that
> nobody will see anyway. One in the rust belt that
> has not been moved for
> 30 years may be really hard to break loose. In
> those cases, I use a big
> hammer and a big chisel on the outer rim, to turn it
> so it will
> unscrew. You have to be careful not to scar the
> surface on the tank, and
> only chisel the outer edge of the plug. When you
> get it out, you may need
> to file the sealing surface flat again.
>
> There is only a small area to grab with a pipe
> wrench, but it has been
> done. You need a nearly new 36 inch pipe wrench.
> It can be done with a 24
> inch, but it will probably need a pipe extension on
> the handle. They are
> really tight.
>
> If you buy a 7/8 allen, try beating it into the hex
> with a Bfh before you
> grind anything. A SNUG fit in an Allen head is
> desirable. Loose is not good.
>
> At 02:56 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
> >Well, I didn't think there was enough there to grab
> on
> >to...but I will give it a whirl (and a twirl).
> >
> >The closest I could find to a 22mm allen wrench is
> >7/8, which is 22.2, I believe. Would need a little
> >filing. $13 for the short handle and $20 for the
> long
> >handle. Wonder what the dealerships use...MB
> probably
> >sells a special tool.
> >
> >Christopher
> >
> >--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > I am not familiar with the 115, but i think it
> is
> > > the same as 110. You
> > > can use a large bolt head or, as Darrell says,
> use a
> > > pipe wrench on the
> > > outer edge. My weapon of choice is large
> channel
> > > locks if I can't find a
> > > big bolt head. Once the plug is loose, the
> screen
> > > comes out with it, just
> > > the same as a 123.
> > >
> > > At 12:43 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
> > > >there is no way to use a pipe wrench...it is a
> huge
> > > >allen head screw. I measured it and it looked
> like
> > > 21
> > > >or 22mm. Stopped by Star Parts this morning and
> he
> > > >told me 22mm. Before I bought the tool, I
> thought
> > > I'd
> > > >verify with list.
> > > >
> > > >Yes, I am trying drain all the rust out (that I
> > > >suspect is in there) and perhaps other crud.
> When
> > > >purchased, the fuel cap was off and now the
> > > prefilter
> > > >is crudding up fast (with rust)...rather than
> > > changing
> > > >filters once a week, I thought I should strike
> at
> > > the
> > > >root and drain/flush.
> > > >
> > > >There is nothing down there that takes a 46mm
> > > wrench
> > > >(wish there was, that I can handle).
> > > >
> > > >I know you can drain from the fuel hose, but I
> > > think
> > > >the crud is severe enough to warrant draining
> > > through
> > > >the strainer, which I think can be removed once
> the
> > > >GIANT allen screw is out. Indy agreed that
> would be
> > > >best course of action.
> > > >
> > > >Thoughts? I might try a 22mm bolt head...but I
> > > would
> > > >prefer to have a real tool...
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> > > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >
> >
> >
> >Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
> >-1985 300SD, 207K miles, "Wulf"
> http://don.homelinux.net/mbz/Chris
> >-1976 240D, ManyK miles, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen
> Kraftstoffs
> >Prüfenlastwagen = Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
> >-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"
> >
> >
> >
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> >_______________________________________
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> >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
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> >
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>
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>
>
> _______________________________________
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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>
Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 207K miles, "Wulf" http://don.homelinux.net/mbz/Chris
-1976 240D, ManyK miles, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs
Prüfenlastwagen = Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"
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