buy the rubber "shims"  You need no compressor on the rear.  Just put 
a separate jack under the outer end of the lower control arm (LCA), 
then unbolt the shock.  with the shock loose, the LCA will lower 
enough, (under control of the jack) to let the spring drop out.  You 
may need to drop the diff too, but I don't think so.  Been a while 
since I did a 123, and the last one I did, i was rebuilding the whole 
rear subframe.   While putting in the shims, you will find out if the 
springs are broken.  The old 111 220Sb American model would need 
springs replaced.  On newer models, I tend to agree with 
Marshall.  bad springs are rare.

At 02:36 PM 9/24/2008, you wrote:
>My wife pointed out yesterday that my pants have gotten a bit saggy, 
>it turns out that since we've gotten the dog I've dropped nearly an 
>entire waist size...
>
>Anyway the rear end of my 240D looks saggy and when I used to drive 
>it would sag noticably while refueling. Fred and I talked about this 
>the other day at the ChowdaQ and he reminded me that Marshall 
>insisted that MB springs don't wear out... He also said somebody at 
>Rusty's said they sold lots of 'em...
>They're $86 apiece from Rusty which seems reasonable if it'll fix 
>the problem. He's also got spring shims in 9.5, 11 and 19mm which I 
>vaugely remember Marshall saying were the way to fix saggy cars. The 
>shims are MUCH less expensive, $6-$7 apiece.
>
>So should I just maybe get a couple 11mm shims? How does one install 
>them, do I need a spring compressor?
>
>Thanks
>
>-Curt
>
>
>
>
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Loren Faeth 


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