Winter before last I cut up a bunch of pallets with my 6 1/2" circular saw.
Pallets are all hell on sawblades as theres all sorts of metal in them, they
make GREAT firewood though.
Anyway 6 1/2" sawblades are actually generally more expensive than 7 1/4"
blades, apparently they sell fewer. So I took my old cheapie Ace Hardware blade
and applied the file. It worked, I've been able to sharpen it several times
now, just takes a little time with a small triangular file (to get one small
enough I had to go to a triangular). I can't do a plywood blade, there isn't
space for my ham handed efforts but a big toothed crosscut blade is no sweat.
I was at a festival last month where a guy was running a shingle mill that was
made in the 1890s. Original blade, had it belted to a '54 Farmall Super MD. It
made shingles about 18" long. Took all the HP that tractor had.
-Curt
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:25:42 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] OT saw sharpener
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
On Oct 8, 2008, at 4:03 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have a ton of old circular saw blades that
> I've been meaning to get sharpened but never got around to it. I
> remember
> many years ago seeing ads in the woodworking mags for the Foley Belsaw
> sharpener, but I seem to remember it costing a whole lot more than
> $59.99.
> It might be nice to be able to touch up a blade even if I didn't
> use it for
> full sharpening.
Royce:
I just interviewed a guy for a story who built and runs the ONLY
sawmill in operation capable of riff-sawing 8' clapboards. The saw is
making a plough cut through huge white pine logs at great speed. Most
such mills are only 6' long because the blade overheats and warps by
the time that long a cut is made. This guy figured out how to go two
more feet, mostly by using extremely well-built century-plus old
equipment and tuning it up to NASA tolerances. He uses 150-year-old
ripping blades--the best, he says--and sharpens them by hand, with a
file, and sets the teeth himself. He's been using the same blades for
20 years and says they'll never need gumming, much less replacement.
If the saw doesn't run quite true, he taps the blade with a hammer
"to realign the molocules." Sounds like voodoo, but the thing RIPS
through huge logs, makes less noise than s skillsaw, and throws off
long strings of excelsior, not "sawdust." Amazing.
Dan
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