Dave M. wrote:
Chris,
I think Marshall's comments are long gone. Richard didn't read my
warning and replaced the old page with just my notes, not Marshalls.
And he had no backup to pull from. So unless they're saved on
someone's personal drive, or Marshall can add to it from memory,
they're gone. That was about a year ago back when the MBZ.org site was
still alive...
In addition to the head problem(s):
Marshall Booth (on the subject of 300TD purchase): The OM60x engines
used in the W201/124/'86+ 126s are much quieter then the older OM61x
engine. Part of that IS the engine and part is the sound encapsulation
used in and under the engine compartment (be SURE the one you buy HAS
these panels - some misguided mechanics throw them away and they are
expensive to replace)! The hydraulic valve lifters CAN make quite a
racket if the car has had a steady diet of conventional oil. Changing to
synthetic oil WILL considerably reduce and eventually may even eliminate
all but an occasional clack/clatter from these "noisemakers" ;-) The '87
300TD is probably my favorite MB ever!
There are LOTS of little things to look at when buying a 13 year old
car. Ones that I would look for are: AC system - it must produce good
cooling (compressor replacement will usually be well over $1000), the
sunroof must work properly in all modes (sunroof repair can be $1000),
The tail gate must open, stay up and close flawlessly and the "pull in"
motor must engage and pull the gate shut without effort once contact is
made, check that the serpentine belt idler pulley (right below the
horizontal expanse of fan belt at the front to of the engine) MUST be
aligned parallel with the belt - if it's a degree or two cocked, then it
MUST be repaired (the costs could be from $100-$1000 depending on what
is actually worn or broken), the engine MUST start promptly when dead
cold and idle should smooth out within 20-30 seconds! There must be NO
evidence of transmission fluid on the grate at the bottom of the bell
housing (where the torque converter lives ;-) as that would be evidence
of leaking seals (minimum of $500 to fix) and the transmission should
shift very smoothly after the 1st few cold shifts. The power seats
should all move effortlessly and all the windows should work at about
the same speed. The cruise control should be tested! The radio, antenna
and cassette player SHOULD work (though a refurbished radio is available
on an exchange basis from Becker for about $130). Wipers (front and
rear) should work smoothly. Finally, the car should ride and handle
about as well as your 300SD - but just a bit more agile and it should
feel more powerful ('cause it is).
---------------------------------------
Let me add that the 124 is notorious for having the wires from the "B"
pillar to the rear doors break - seems that the wire was made from
stranded wire with too few strands of wire that was too thick to be
sufficiently flexible. The 201s and 126s made during the same period did
NOT suffer from this failure.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
