>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission repair "factory PDF"
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Message-ID: <432920.83209...@web30007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I've got almost all that already. There is a very nice spring compressor
> that you can buy which looks really handy.
>
> Yes, the 722.4 and .3 are very similar. They are covered in the same ASTG
> rebuild manual that I bought...
> http://www.atsg.biz/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EIMP&keywords=all&pricecode=&passsubnum=
>
> So, you obviously rebuilt a 722.4 - did you have any trans rebuilding
> experience before you did it? Did you use a manual to guide you through? If
> so, which one?
>
> It's amazing that the clutch disks last as long as they do. Now that I have
> a bit of a clue how the automatic trans works, I've changed my view on them
> a bit. They don't really "break at 200,000 miles" the wear pieces just wear
> out. Of course, the hard parts can break, but that is not usually the case,
> it seems.
>

Chris-

This was my first.  I'd gone through the service literature a few times and
found it most helpful.  Other than that it was basic follow the directions,
document anything special, bag parts/assemblies from like areas and document
where those were  (writing notes in the directions)- pretty basic stuff.
Get lots of little containers to sequester parts.  Use a digital camera to
take lots of pictures through the teardown.

In my case I use the top of a folding table covered with three layers of
plastic.  My only wish is that the table had a lip to contain the fluid you
WILL lose- no matter what you do you'll still have ~ a half quart inside the
box.  You'll need lots of rags, preferably lint-free ones.  I got away with
paper towels, but cleaned the inside of the case with rags and pieces with
rags (not paper towels) on reassembly.  I found and used a tub of
transmission assembly lube, which being quite viscous was quite useful in
certain areas where o-rings etc might have wanted to move about a bit.  Also
VERY useful when mating the valve body back into the box.  Other than
dropping the whole valve body (keep track of which bolts go where) I didn't
do any further disassembly; figured 1) it didn't have issues before; 2)
there are a whole MESS of parts, balls, pins, springs etc to cause grief
given half a chance and 3) if there was a problem, I can quite easily get
the body back out.

 I deliberately did the transmission on a weekend the family was out of town
for a weekend so I could focus, concntrate and take my time.  But overall it
was straightforward.  If you've tackled something like ball joints where you
need to assemble plumbing fittings to press in the joint, you've got a good
head start on the kinds of things you'll need to get creative on.

While I'd always love an excuse for more tools, most of the special tools
for the transmission would not be terribly useful otherwise.

I really was amazed at how little wear there was.  Even on the B3 brake
assembly, at least two of the friction discs still had visible imprinted ink
on them.  Only two were significantly worn.

After everything is back in you'll need to dial in the modulator; there is a
MB gauge set for this but you can also use a banjo bolt used on some M103
thermostat housings as a purge fitting; this fitting, some 1/4" PVC
(nprmally rated to 50 PSI, right around where you need to be) and an
accurate gauge will help you dial in the pressures.

Tony WIrtel
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