Tony, Thanks for your thoughtful e-mail. It is a major boost of confidence to know that this can be done "DIY". I'm putting a copy of your e-mail with the rebuild manual so I remember your suggestions and caveats.
In addition to the factory manual and the ATSG (Automatic Transmission Service Group) manual, I received today a copy of "Mercedes 722.3/722.4" by Greg Catanzaro. It is really excellent and in easy to read language. BTW, did you replace your brake bands? I haven't had the chance to research this yet, but I have already seen conflicting advice of 1) ALWAYS replace the bands 2) Only replace if worn out as the replacement bands are nowhere near as good as the originals. Thanks! Chris '85 300SD 241K mi/'92 Dodge B-350 Ram Wagon/'75 240D/'80 300SD/'83 240D/'84 300Dt/'82 300SD/'85 300Dt Cali (parting out)/'87 190E 2.3 (parting out) --- On Fri, 1/16/09, Tony Wirtel <tony.wir...@gmail.com> wrote: > From: Tony Wirtel <tony.wir...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission repair "factory PDF" > To: mercedes@okiebenz.com > Date: Friday, January 16, 2009, 10:37 PM > > > > Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission repair "factory > PDF" > > To: Mercedes Discussion List > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> > > Message-ID: > <432920.83209...@web30007.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > I've got almost all that already. There is a very > nice spring compressor > > that you can buy which looks really handy. > > > > Yes, the 722.4 and .3 are very similar. They are > covered in the same ASTG > > rebuild manual that I bought... > > > http://www.atsg.biz/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EIMP&keywords=all&pricecode=&passsubnum= > > > > So, you obviously rebuilt a 722.4 - did you have any > trans rebuilding > > experience before you did it? Did you use a manual to > guide you through? If > > so, which one? > > > > It's amazing that the clutch disks last as long as > they do. Now that I have > > a bit of a clue how the automatic trans works, > I've changed my view on them > > a bit. They don't really "break at 200,000 > miles" the wear pieces just wear > > out. Of course, the hard parts can break, but that is > not usually the case, > > it seems. > > > > Chris- > > This was my first. I'd gone through the service > literature a few times and > found it most helpful. Other than that it was basic follow > the directions, > document anything special, bag parts/assemblies from like > areas and document > where those were (writing notes in the directions)- pretty > basic stuff. > Get lots of little containers to sequester parts. Use a > digital camera to > take lots of pictures through the teardown. > > In my case I use the top of a folding table covered with > three layers of > plastic. My only wish is that the table had a lip to > contain the fluid you > WILL lose- no matter what you do you'll still have ~ a > half quart inside the > box. You'll need lots of rags, preferably lint-free > ones. I got away with > paper towels, but cleaned the inside of the case with rags > and pieces with > rags (not paper towels) on reassembly. I found and used a > tub of > transmission assembly lube, which being quite viscous was > quite useful in > certain areas where o-rings etc might have wanted to move > about a bit. Also > VERY useful when mating the valve body back into the box. > Other than > dropping the whole valve body (keep track of which bolts go > where) I didn't > do any further disassembly; figured 1) it didn't have > issues before; 2) > there are a whole MESS of parts, balls, pins, springs etc > to cause grief > given half a chance and 3) if there was a problem, I can > quite easily get > the body back out. > > I deliberately did the transmission on a weekend the > family was out of town > for a weekend so I could focus, concntrate and take my > time. But overall it > was straightforward. If you've tackled something like > ball joints where you > need to assemble plumbing fittings to press in the joint, > you've got a good > head start on the kinds of things you'll need to get > creative on. > > While I'd always love an excuse for more tools, most of > the special tools > for the transmission would not be terribly useful > otherwise. > > I really was amazed at how little wear there was. Even on > the B3 brake > assembly, at least two of the friction discs still had > visible imprinted ink > on them. Only two were significantly worn. > > After everything is back in you'll need to dial in the > modulator; there is a > MB gauge set for this but you can also use a banjo bolt > used on some M103 > thermostat housings as a purge fitting; this fitting, some > 1/4" PVC > (nprmally rated to 50 PSI, right around where you need to > be) and an > accurate gauge will help you dial in the pressures. > > Tony WIrtel > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090116/1985af5d/attachment.html> > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
