Do the normal diagnosis: Verify that the fuel pump runs and the cold
start valve works (you will have trouble starting cold without out,
will require lots of cranking).
Check for and repair vacuum leaks, most important are idle control
valve hoses and boot between throttle body and air flow meter horn.
Make sure someone didn't "fix" the vacuum leaks by messing with the
idle mixture -- set it to 50% at idle warm -- if it's too lean, it
will never start cold.
Clean the air flow meter horn venturi -- a bunch of crud in there
(from the leaking boot) will cause it to stick cold, and hence no
fuel and no start.
Verify that the EHA is getting correct current - a bad wire will
result in no cold enrichement and hard starts.
Peter
On Jan 25, 2009, at 6:07 PM, Hendrik & Fay wrote:
The KE-jetronic is not that bad to work out once you understand how
everything works together.
At a guess I'd say that the problem can be easily fixed by someone
who knows the system. If the OVP is stuffed then you have a K
jetronic car, without a cold start circuit.
Worst case scenario is that your fuel injection ECU is stuffed but
they can be gotten pretty easy.
Then there is the idle air valve.
First thing I'd do is to tip a bit of fuel onto the air flow meter
plate to see if a lack of extra fuel at cold start up is the problem.
If it starts OK with extra fuel then we can surmise that it is the
cold start circuit. If you know how to drive a multi meter you can
check for voltage at the number (?)1 pin on the ECU, no voltage =
broken OVP, which may have a blown fuse or the fuse is not making
good contact (had this happen in a 190E but the 201 still worked
well because it is not that cold here and you don't even really
need the cold start circuit 95% of the time). Or you can read the
duty cycle if you know how, this may tell you something.
A easy way of testing the cold start injector is to take it out and
hook it back up to the system, remove the ignition pulse plug off
the ignition ECU and crank it. Best to place a rag around the
injector to save fuel getting sprayed everywhere, if it is working.
Idle air valve is easy too, use a small G clamp to clamp off the
extra air hose, thus producing the cold start setting.
Remember to act stupid, to make the deal go your way. Use expensive
terms like OVP, ECU, idle air valve and fuel distributor head.
Hendrik
with a working 300TE
Christopher McCann wrote:
Kaleb (or anyone else),
You remember the $350 '82 300SD...well, I have it on CL for $1650:
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/1004824610.html
A guy with an '87 300E came to look at it last night. Turns out,
he has it on CL too:
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/998880287.html
He doesn't buy, but calls back today and wants to trade - even
swap. He needs a running car and fears that he will not get
anything for the 300E as it has a cold start problem that he
cannot solve. He's replaced 6 injectors, rotor and distributor.
(PO did valve job and timing chain). Anyway, I did a little
research on 300E cold start problem and it is clear that he has
not addressed some of the simplest things - cold start valve, temp
sensor, bunch of other things to check first.
I am inclined to do this trade as it could be a really simple
fix...seems that it is LIKELY to be a simple fix. OTOH, it could
be expensive and complicated.
I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH GASSERS, SO I DON"T KNOW IF IT IS A GOOD
IDEA TO GO AHEAD AND TRADE. I have a 7:30 meeting to look at it.
Appartently has almost no rust, nice interior, fast, drives well,
blah blah.
THOUGHTS?
Chris
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
