Yeah, I think if you could preheat it before applying the weld, it would
have been better.

A couple of friends and I build up an engine once (aluminum block).  As the
power was upped a lot, we decided to beef up the cradle around the crank.
It was sent out for the job, but the block wasn't preheated, so once the
added fins and supports cooled, they pulled the block and bores out of
round.  The block was toast and only good as a coffee table after that.  Got
it right the second time, until one of the cylinders decided it didn't want
to play with the rest of it's friends, and left. hee hee.

Ed
300E

2009/2/8 OK Don <okd...@gmail.com>

> I don't know about that - it warped quite a lot during welding, and had to
> be baked and flattened - just didn't quite get it there (flat). Maybe if
> you
> had an old block to bolt it to while welding, and could heat the whole
> thing, then let it cool down slowly, it would be OK.
>
> On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 6:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net
> >wrote:
>
> > or, a better welder
> >
> > OK Don wrote:
> >
> >> Yes - that was me.  Though the welder trie, it idn't come out perfectly
> >> flat. If I torqued one of the bolts at the rear flange properly, it
> leaked
> >> oil. If I backed it off about 30%, it didn't leak, so I cleaned it as
> best
> >> I
> >> could, applied blue locktite, and left it that way. A used pan would be
> >> preferable.
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >  95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
> >  89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
> >  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > _______________________________________
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> OK Don
> W124 Diesels
> Ubuntu 8.10
> KD5NRO
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