This is why there is very little "break the lock" 20 second theft of Benzes -- it's not possible to snap the tumbler or use a pair of pliers to break the column lock, like you can with GM or Ford.

You can't yank the door lock cylinder with a dent puller, either -- all that happens is the little trim piece with the spring loaded door will pop out, you can't get a dent puller into the tumbler.

Peter

On Feb 27, 2009, at 6:13 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Wilton's method, is the cheapest, and fastest. I took out a 123 lock using the grind off the pin method, and it is a royal PITA.. After I got the steering lock/lock assy. out, i clamped it in the vise and ground the protective collar into 2 pieces. Then I could pull out the lock.

I had tried to drill it, and it dulled all the expensive, exotic bits. After I got the lock out of the steering lock, i took it apart and carried the front piece to a guy who sells drill bits that will "go through anything" and had him try his drill on it. Blunted his bit too. He asked me what it was, and I said Kryptonite. He pulled out a carbide drill, and it would drill it, but the guy didn't want to drill through it.

So, unless you have a carbide drill (Not masonry carbide) forget about drilling it.

At 05:55 PM 2/27/2009, you wrote:
The correct way to remove it is to take the lower dash panel off and
the protector around the assembly.  Grind the hardened pin (steering
lock release when the key can beturned) off so that you can pull the
ignition assembly off the steering column.

From this point you can get the tumbler out from the lock assembly,
I believe, without turning it (the release is covered when installed).

You will need a new tumbler and a new latching assembly, which was
$100 or so a few years back.

Never use brass keys and never lubricate the lock with grahpite --
both cause it to seize.

Peter

On Feb 27, 2009, at 1:35 PM, Wilton Strickland wrote:

'Tried to call ya; 'sent me to mail box.

'No way to force it short of a BIG bomb that would likely blow a
hole bigger
than you want in the neighborhood.  Key MUST be in position 1 to
slip an
unlatching pin (white coathanger wedge-shaped on the end works
great) in the
small hole to unlock the security unlatch, which will then allow
you to
unscrew the security ring.  If you can turn the key to position 1
and insert
an unlatching pin, the tumbler exchange takes about 30 seconds;
otherwise
much trouble - grinding, etc.  'No way to force it.

In Oct 07, I had same problem with my 124 - could not turn key to
position
1.  After many tries with different key, including new key, I
attached a key
to the vibrating plate of a vibrating sander, inserted the key,
turned the
sander on, and in about 5 seconds, turned the key to position 1.
After the
key was in position 1, it took me about 30 seconds to remove the
old tumbler
and insert a new one - 'saved 'bout $700 labor cost of grinding/ cutting out
old one.  Try the vibrating key method before resorting to
grinding, etc.
Mine worked beautifully.

My # 919-734-2830

Wilton

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Hawkins Java" <macj...@aol.com>
To: <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300TD KEY JAM STEAL THIS CAR!



Folks,

We have a friend and customer with a jammed ignition lock cylinder on
a 1983 300TD

We've tried a couple of different keys. We are going to try tap and
turn.

The big ring is in place around the cylinder. Does the key have to be
in position 1 to push in the little pin and remove that? Any way to
force it.

Can we simply drill the lock?

Can we remove the entire lock assembly from the steering column?

Just what is the quickest and least destructive option to remove the
lock cylinder? Since he's in a hurry, please email ideas to me
directly at macj...@aol.com and the list. My cell is 706 540-3285 if
anyone has any good voice encouragement.

Thanks for your help!!




thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com




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Loren Faeth

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