Jim, Max
I pulled four fuses that got me to "0" mA.
#2 which took the clock flux out.
(a) Is drawing 25 mA. "Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment
memory".
(b) Is drawing 25 mA. "Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment".
(nothing about memory)
#15 Is drawing ~10 mA. One of the nine items it protects is "Control unit,
seat adjustment memory".
What say you guys? Am I done?
Thanks
Harry
Things that can draw static power:
1) Clock
2) Radio
3) Antenna
4) Central locking system
5) Alarm system
6) Dome light timer
7) Leaky alternator diode
60mA is pretty small for a bulb. P=VI, so that would be a 3/4W
bulb. Any one of these candidates could be 'leaking' internally,
and drawing more than it should. Most of these are fused, so
if you can kill the load via fuse that's a clue that it's not
#7, or some grotesque wiring harness or ignition switch leak.
When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 60
when closed, after the delay for the dome light.
150mA? That's about a 1W light bulb. Should be lots more than
that, more like amps. Two 5W bulbs in the doors, plus a 10W in the
dome. Call it 20W, or 1.6A. You overwhelming the meter? On a
Fluke, this is a $10 mistake.
When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled maxed
out.
Does this sound like a wire short?
Possibly, I've had them. People mis-wire trunk switch/light
assemblies, and the wire through the hinge is vulnerable.
There are three wires on the trunk light assembly (one's the
alarm system); if you swap the wrong two the fuse blows every
time you open the trunk. The normal load should have been a
10W bulb, or 850mA.
The typical car battery is, let's say, 75 amp-hours. Translation:
A one amp draw for seventy-five hours will _completely_ exhaust
the battery. (And it would be unable to start the car well before
that.) A 65mA load should do the job in 1100 hours, but if you
burn a full quarter of the battery (in 250 hours) I'd say it was
unacceptable. Ten days. A 20mA draw would be more like a month,
which is probably acceptable.
I don't know what the normal base load is on an SDL. Maybe I ought
to, owning one and all, but I don't. I may have measured it, but
in the early days I didn't keep a very detailed journal of what I
did. It was only my second MB, after all.
I can tell you that a variable 200-350mA leak in Jill's SL was enough
to prevent starting if she didn't drive daily. A keyless entry system
was about 10mA. I didn't note the draw after the fix, how smart's that?
-- Jim
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