Thanks. The head actually appears not to be that heavy. My car guy is very strong so perhaps we can just muscle it around?
The head looks fine from visual inspection. Is the head repairable at a reasonable cost regardles of its actual condition upon testing? On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 2:48 PM, Greg Fiorentino <gf...@dslnorthwest.net>wrote: > Removing the head provides a good opportunity to replace (if needed) valve > guide seals, which are dirt cheap. > > Where I live, near Portland, OR there is a machine shop that does this sort > of work and has a very good reputation. Unless you are very near Metric > Motors, I would think you could do better with a local shop. Look for > credible local recommendations. > > Magnafluxing is not too expensive, and very worthwhile. If cracks are > found, they might be repairable. > > The shop should be able to determine if valves and seats need to be > reground, and to do this at little cost. > > A "skim" milling of the mating surface to true it up is probably necessary. > > I R&R'd a head on an old Volvo B18 engine a long time back and just used a > come-along from an overhead beam to pull it. I suppose the Benz head is a > lot heavier. > > You should be able to have a shop do this all for a few hundred, depending > on your location. Call shops to get a ballpark figure. > > Greg > > -----Original Message----- > From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] > On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel > Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:56 AM > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon > > I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D > engine and "converted" (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits > conversion into a real 300TD. I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the > SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty > work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head. > If > that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks > with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper > fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works. > > So I have several questions. > > 1. How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good? If I > take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they > determine? > > 2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I > remove the old head? What is a worst case scenario? > > 3. Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice? > > 4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is > disassembled: valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims, etc. The engine is > currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately. > > Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested. > As usual, TIA. > > Andrew > 1983 300TD > 1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
