I checked; the w210.025 (turbo) install has an integrated lifting eye. I'm attaching a pic for reference; I think you can see that the manifold is a wee bit different too. (I've got the top sound encapsulation panel off to do fuel bypass/return hoses)
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Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 28967 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20101230/3a8779f2/attachment.jpeg> -------------- next part -------------- -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Dec 28, 2010, at 16:16, "Max Dillon" <meadedil...@bellsouth.net> wrote: > I'll add one note, because I've BTDT and still haven't put back the lifting > eye back in place. > > During the re-assembly, at this step: > > - Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a... > Don't forget to re-install the lifting eye at cylinder #6. > > -Max > > -----Original Message----- > From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On > Behalf Of Craig > Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2010 4:13 PM > To: mercedes@okiebenz.com > Subject: Re: [MBZ] How to spend Christmas eve? > > On Sat, 25 Dec 2010 13:58:06 -0500 John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net> > wrote: > >> Looks like I might be (re)doing DV seals; they only seem to last 60-70k >> with the ULSD we run now. I guess I need to find the write-up that I >> did a few years ago (for the OM606/W210); it was long enough ago that >> the good Dr was able to comment. > > You mean the write-up Loren sent to me? > > > Craig > > ======================================================================== > > Applies to OM606 W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves. Most should apply to > OM603 > > A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it > wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!) > > It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running > out to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous, > certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know. > > > > Parts: > 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips) > 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims ? trim them on one side) > 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips) > 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket OM 606 only, your gasket may > vary) > > 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares) > 6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer) > (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.) > Optional: > 6x 001 074 34 93 Delivery valve spring. > > > Tools: > - 8mm socket or nutrunner > - 10mm socket > - 6mm hex bit socket > - T-30 socket > - T-40 socket > - 13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00 > - 32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00 > - a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers > - some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics > cleaner) > - Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm -> 35Nm > - A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, "Scott" Brand) > misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4 > reducer), a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel > fuel > > Instructions: > - The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least > the middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places) > > - You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe > to the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was > missing!) as well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR > valve (10mm bolt). > > - Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic over-shield > on the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws) > > - Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the > engine while everything is still closed up. > > - Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil separator to the top of the > engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and > breather tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube > ends on the engine) > > - Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one > hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6. > > - Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line > and the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the > little plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the > manifold with some cleaner to let it soak while you work > > - Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the > engine), noting its orientation. > > - Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler > pipe to keep crud out of them. > > - Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc). > > - Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, > how the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two > lines run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses. > > - Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will > likely break. > > - Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The > special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine > side. > > - Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings > to the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the > pump. > > - Remove all of the lock rings. > > - Clean the top of the IP again -- pay special attention to around the > delivery valves. > > *** > > - Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery valve > holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being > careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from > inside the pump. > > - Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the > assembly that was under the valve holder. > > - Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep > the ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore > > - Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb > cleaner or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body > (don't flush it inside!) > > - Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oil > on the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring > that the ring is well-oiled. > > - Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of > the valve assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the > valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched. > > - Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve > holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb). > > - Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the > torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs. > > - Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs) > > - Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages) > > - Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the remaining > delivery valves. If any don't look right or feel right, or you just > aren't sure if it's right, remove it, inspect the O-ring for > pinches/tears and do it over. It's easy to do right now. > > - After finishing all the valves, replace the lock rings, I think a > decent order to place the on is: 1-3-2-5-4-6, making sure that the holes > all line up for the retaining screws. > > - Reinstall the retaining screws (T-30), making sure to "pre-load" the > lock rings to prevent loosening of the valve holders). Torque to > 10Nm/7ft-lbs. > > - Remove all of the rubber shims from the injection line brackets. Use > one of the old shims as a pattern to trim the new ones before installing > the new shims. > > - Replace the injection lines. Where the pipes run together in pairs, the > odd number cylinder one should lay on top. Do not tighten the nuts yet. > Make sure that the low pressure fuel lines and bypass hose is routed > properly. > > - Install all of the new clips (easier said than done, but a straight > screwdriver and a rubber mallet make it a little easier to install > them). > > - Torque all of the injection line nuts to 23Nm/17ft-lbs. > > - Remove the rag bits for the oil separator and reinstall-Torque to > 10Nm/7ft-lbs. > > - You may want to clean the top of the engine a bit more here.... > > - Remove the rag bits from the intake ports and clean the gasket mating > surface. Ensure that no bits of rag tor off in the ports, etc. > > - Slide in the new manifold gasket, making sure to place it in the same > orientation as the old gasket. > > - Remove the rag from the intercooler pipe and gently lower the manifold > back into place. It is easier to reattach the vacuum and pressure lines > before bolting in the manifold. > > - Ensure the manifold, gasket, and head are all properly aligned. Using a > bolt near each end usually helps keep things in place. > > - Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a light > coating of anti-seize lubricant. After all are installed, torque them to > 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs, double checking the torques after all are torqued. > > - Reinstall the EGR tube clamp, it is possible to place it so the bolt is > accessible from above/beside the manifold. > > - Clean the top of the engine (the injection pipe nuts especially) and > the top of the injection pump with a quick-drying spray solvent, so we > can see any leaks more readily. > > - Jack the car again and reinstall the intercooler pipe to EGR bolt > (torque to 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs). > > - Reinstall the underpans. > > - Lower the car. > > - To bleed the injection lines, depress the accelerator to the floor > while holding the key in the start position. After 40 seconds, stop, and > let the starter cool for 5 minutes or so. Repeat until the car starts > and runs. Run the car (1200rpm or so) until it smooths out (this will > make sure that all the air is out of the lines.) It will sound like > crap for 5 minutes or so. > > - Let the car run for several minutes and check for fuel leaks at the top > of the injection pump and around the injection pipe nuts. Hopefully, > there are no leaks. > > - Reinstall the valve cover over-shield, torquing the 8 bolts to > 10Nm/7ft-lbs. > > - Close the hood and clean up! > > - Attempt to convince your spouse that you can now afford some expensive > new toy with the money (probably close to $450 after allowing for the > two special sockets) that you just saved! (Let me know how well you fare > in that Endeavour!) > > "John W. Reames III" <jwrea...@comcast.net> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Nice writeup. One caution. Even if you torque the delivery valves > PERFECTLY, they might still distort the injection pump body. That will > cause noise (and damage if not promptly corrected) and result in > incorrect/uneven fuel delivery. The cure is to loosen and re-torque the > delivery valve for the cylinder that's misfiring. valve. > > Even experienced pros using a torque wrench seem to distort the pump > maybe 1 out of 10 times (I'm told) and need to loosen and retighten the > valve. It may be that the earlier OM60x pumps are more touchy about this > than the later ones and I KNOW that the 6 cylinder versions are much > worse than the 4 or 5 cylinder pumps. > > Marshall > > I did it without removing the intake manifold, 603. I did remove the air > pipe form the turbo. Take loose Inj line clips at the bolts. Push the > back 3 lines aside, but don?t try to remove them from the manifold with > the unbolted holders still clipped to the line. > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
